Fish British fishing has changed enormously over the past century, and the effects are showing. Stocks of some of our best-loved fish, notably cod, are dangerously low. Here we take a look at what steps we can take to ensure our fish comes from a sustainable source.

In this article

What to look for when you buy fish

The true cost of fish farming

Is organic fish sustainable?

Fish stocks are low, and modern high-tech, intensive fishing methods are at the root of the problem. Traditionally, fishermen would have only fished in in-shore waters, during a fishing trip lasting less than 24 hours, using small nets or lines. Modern fleets are bigger, faster and far more powerful, to the detriment of fish stocks the world over.

However, there are options for conscientious consumers of fish who want to ensure their fish comes from a sustainable source. If you're buying fish from a supermarket, look for the blue and white logo of the Marine Stewardship Council, which guarantees sustainability. Another thing consumers can do is to choose fish other than the most popular varieties, which are most likely to be overfished. Opt for the likes of pollack, saithe, blue whiting, herring and mackerel. Buy your fish from reputable suppliers and, whether you're buying fresh fish or eating at a restaurant, insist on fish from a sustainable source. Suppliers eventually must react to consumer demands.

On the face of it, fish farming, or aquaculture, seems like a practical solution to the problem of overfishing. Fish farming, however, is the cause of many problems. In the UK, it's salmon that's most closely associated with farming - and its shortcomings. Public demand for cheaper food means that farmed salmon are often kept, for financial reasons, very densely stocked, with huge numbers of fish crammed into very little space. In this state, the fish can more easily become diseased, and these diseases can spread to wild fish. Huge amounts of antibiotics are required to keep the fish moderately healthy.

Other problems are escapes, when farmed fish interbreed with wild fish and potentially weaken wild stocks, as well as pollution to the water and seabed around fish farms. Farmed salmon, which are carnivorous, eat three times their body weight in fish feed, which is made from other fish - not the best use of resources from an environmental point of view. Another problem with all salmon (wild or farmed) is that it can contain high levels of dioxins and polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs). Farmed fish labelled as 'organic' is not immune to the problems of fish farming, as their feed, although organic, is just as unsustainable as non-organic feed. It's little surprise that farmed fish all too often have poor texture and flavour.

Be adventurous!

While many parts of the coast of Britain are associated with particular fish species - salmon from Scotland, crabs from Norfolk, brown trout from Hampshire, kippers from the North-east, native oysters from East Anglia - it's important not to overlook the amazing diversity of fish we have access to. Being adventurous can pay off in other ways too - many of the lesser-known species make for delicious eating.