
A simple pigeon can be cooked in a myriad of delicious ways, as demonstrated in this impressive recipe.
2 squab pigeons with livers
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 garlic clove
2 sprigs thyme
400g/14oz duck fat
100ml/3½fl oz double cream
1 free-range egg white
6 slices prosciutto
olive oil, for frying
1-2 tbsp olive oil
2 squab pigeon carcasses (see above)
2 banana shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
200ml/7fl oz red wine
500ml/17½fl oz chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
knob of cold butter
4 Desirée potatoes, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp freshly grated parmesan
1 black truffle, freshly grated
1 tsp olive oil
20g/1oz butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
100g/3½oz plain flour, seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 free-range eggs, beaten
100g/3½oz panko breadcrumbs
2 litres vegetable oil
1 small Savoy cabbage
1-2 tbsp olive oil
4 banana shallots, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
50g/2oz pancetta, finely chopped
100ml/3½fl oz chicken stock
100g/3½oz butter
75ml/2½fl oz double cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the pigeon, take the legs off the pigeons and season them with salt. Place into a pan with the garlic, one sprig of thyme and the duck fat and gently heat on the hob’s lowest setting. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until the legs are tender. Remove the legs from the fat (reserve two tablespoons of the fat for the pigeon breasts) and carefully de-bone. Set aside.
Carve the breasts away from the pigeon carcass and set aside, then trim away any remaining meat from the birds and place into a food processor (reserve the pigeon carcasses). Blend until smooth, then add the cream and egg white and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Blend again briefly to combine.
Place a piece of cling film on the work surface and layer over the prosciutto, overlapping each piece slightly. Place one pigeon breast on top, then spread over the trimmings mixture. Place a second pigeon breast on top, then tightly wrap up the breasts in the prosciutto, using the cling film as a guide. Twist the ends to seal.
Bring a pan of water to the boil, then gently drop in the wrapped pigeon ballontine and cook for 5-6 minutes, or until cooked. Remove from the water and set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, place the other two pigeon breasts into a vacuum-pack bag with some salt, freshly ground black pepper, the remaining thyme and the two tablespoons of reserved duck fat. Place into a water bath set at 60C/140F (check using a digital thermometer) and cook for ten minutes, or until the breasts are cooked through. Alternatively, place the breasts in a re-sealable sandwich bag with the air squeezed out and then wrapped in cling film. Place into a pot of water, checking the water temperature regularly. Remove the breasts from the water bath and set aside to rest in the bag.
For the sauce, heat the olive oil in a large pan and add the bones from the pigeons. Fry for 4-5 minutes, or until the bones are browned, then add the shallots and garlic and fry for a further 4-5 minutes, or until soft and golden-brown. Pour in the red wine and cook until the volume of the liquid has reduced by half. Add the stock and cook until the liquid has reduced to a sauce consistency. Pass through a fine sieve back into a clean pan. Just before serving, heat the sauce through, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and whisk in a knob of butter.
For the potato croquettes, place the potatoes into a pan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and cook for 8-10 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and leave in the colander for a few minutes to allow any excess moisture to evaporate. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer and beat in the parmesan, truffle slices, olive oil and butter. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Place four chef’s rings on a tray and pack in the mashed potato mixture to form four cakes. Place into the fridge to chill until ready to serve.
For the cabbage, remove four of the outer leaves of cabbage and boil for 2-3 minutes, or until softened slightly. Remove from the pan and refresh in iced water, then drain. Line four ramekins with cling film, then line using the softened cabbage leaves.
Finely slice the remaining cabbage. Heat the olive oil in a pan and gently fry half the shallots, the carrot and the pancetta for 2-3 minutes, or until the shallots and carrot are softened and the pancetta is golden-brown. Add half the sliced cabbage and fry for 2-3 minutes, then pour in the chicken stock and add half the butter. Cook for 3-4 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender.
Spoon the cooked cabbage into the prepared ramekins, then fold over the cabbage leaves to form a parcel. Using the cling film, shape the parcel into a ball and twist the ends to seal. Set aside. Just before serving, place the cabbage balls into a pan of boiling water for about one minute to heat through.
Melt the remaining butter in a pan, add the remaining shallots and sliced cabbage and fry for 4-5 minutes, or until tender. Add the cream and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to a food processor and blend until smooth. Pass the mixture though a fine sieve and return to a clean pan. Heat through just before serving.
For the baby shallots, bring a pan of water to the boil and add the shallots, still in their skins, along with the thyme. Boil for 4-5 minutes, or until tender, then drain and refresh in iced water. Drain again, then peel each shallot and slice in half. Melt the butter in a pan until foaming, then add the shallots and fry over a low heat until golden-brown.
For the pigeon, heat some olive oil in a frying pan. Remove the cling film from the pigeon ballontine and fry for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until golden-brown and piping hot all the way through. Remove from the pan and set aside to rest before carving into four pieces.
Return the pan to the heat and fry the pigeon breasts and pigeon legs for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until golden-brown all over. Remove from the pan and set aside to rest. Add the livers to the pan and fry for 1-2 minutes on each side, or until golden-brown but still slightly pink in the middle. Slice each liver in half and set aside.
Half-fill a deep, heavy-based pan with the vegetable oil and heat until a cube of bread dropped in sizzles and turns golden-brown in 30 seconds (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended). Remove the potato croquettes from the chef’s rings and dust with the seasoned flour, then dip into the beaten egg and roll in the breadcrumbs. Fry the potato cakes for 3-4 minutes, or until golden-brown and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
For the spinach, melt a knob of butter in a frying pan and fry the spinach for 1-2 minutes, or until wilted. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
To serve, swipe the cabbage purée down one side of the plate and place a potato croquette on one end. Spoon the spinach next to the potato croquette, then arrange the pigeon legs, liver, breast and ballontine alongside. Place the cabbage ball next to the pigeon, scatter around the baby shallots and pour over the sauce.
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