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Smoked squab pigeon with beetroot and chervil

The sweetness of beetroot is a perfect bedfellow for the squab pigeon, which in this recipe is smoked over spruce bark.

Ingredients

For the pigeon
For the pigeon sauce
For the pickled beetroot
For the beetroot purée
For the beetroot roundels
For the rosemary oil
For the beetroot crisps
To serve
  • 1 bunch fresh chervil, leaves picked

Preparation method

  1. For the pigeon, remove the legs from the pigeons and set aside for the sauce. Break the spruce bark into little pieces and place into a deep roasting tray and place over the hob. Place a wire rack over the spruce bark, place the pigeons on top and cover the tray tightly with a sheet of aluminium foil. (CAUTION: this will generate lots of smoke. Keep the area well-ventilated.)

  2. Cook over a gentle flame for about 15 minutes, or until the birds are well-smoked. Remove the pigeons from the tray and place into a large vacuum pack bag with the smoked oil, one sprig of thyme and the garlic. Place into a water bath set at 60C/140F and cook for 25 minutes, or until the pigeon is cooked but still slightly pink in the middle. Alternatively, use a re-sealable bag wrapped in cling film and a pot of water (check the temperature using a digital thermometer at regular intervals). Set the cooked birds aside until ready to serve.

  3. For the pigeon sauce, roughly chop the pigeon legs and add to a pan with the olive oil and sear over a high heat, until the legs are golden-brown all over. Add the shallots and mushrooms and gently fry for 4-5 minutes, then add the garlic, thyme and rosemary. Pour in the red wine and simmer until the wine has reduced to a syrup consistency, then add the chicken stock and veal jus and bring to the boil. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface, then pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a clean pan, discarding the solids. Set aside and heat through just before serving.

  4. For the pickled beetroot, peel the baby beetroots and slice thinly using a mandoline. Place the water, sugar, vinegar and salt into a non-reactive pan and bring to the boil. Add the beetroot slices, then remove from the heat and set aside to cool in the pickling liquid.

  5. For the beetroot purée, cut the beetroot into small pieces, place into a pan and cover with the beetroot juice. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then cook until the beetroot is tender. Transfer to a food processor with the xanthan gum, if using, and blend until smooth. Add some more salt and vinegar to taste, if needed.

  6. For the beetroot roundels, halve each beetroot and trim each piece using a small knife into roundels. Place into a pan with the beetroot juice, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and simmer for 15 minutes, or until tender.

  7. For the rosemary oil, bring a small pan of water to the boil and add the picked rosemary leaves. Cook for 1-2 minutes, then drain and refresh in iced water. Drain and dry well in kitchen paper. Place the rosemary into a food processor with the grapeseed oil and blend until smooth. Pass the oil through a muslin cloth and season to taste with salt.

  8. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4.

  9. For the beetroot crisps, thinly slice the beetroot using a mandoline and place onto an oven tray lined with greaseproof paper. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinke over some sea salt. Bake for about ten minutes, or until crisp.

  10. For the pigeon, heat a little olive oil in a pan and fry the pigeons for 2-3 minutes on all sides, or until golden-brown and crisp all over. Add the butter, remaining thyme and the rosemary to the pan and cook until the butter turns nut-brown. Baste the birds with the butter, then remove from the heat and set aside to rest before carving the breasts.

  11. To serve, arrange the pigeon breast on serving plates. Spoon some of the beetroot purée down one side of the plate, and arrange the pickled beetroot and beetroot roundels along the side. Drizzle with rosemary oil and the pigeon sauce. Garnish the plate with beetroot crisps and the picked chervil.

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