Wild mushrooms If you go down to the woods today, you’ll do well to go armed with a trusted guide and a sense of adventure. If you’re lucky, your reward may well be a basket full of delectable wild mushrooms, a gourmet’s delight.

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Gathering your own Mushrooming safely

Savouring the harvest Mushroom safety tips

Few activities bring out the latent hunter-gatherer more than foraging for wild mushrooms. After the autumn rains and evening chills, dozens of types of wild fungus can be found pushing their way through the leaf-strewn forest floors. In hot pursuit are certain to be fungi-philes and hopeful gourmets, carrying woven baskets and great expectations of a bountiful harvest.

Although many Britons still consider foraging for mushrooms an oddly Continental pursuit, a growing number seem to be embracing the idea of fungi foraging. So, what is it that sends otherwise sensible human beings into out into the damp and cold, when they can simply buy packets of mushrooms - cleaned and ready-prepared - from the supermarket? Martin Lewy, who runs an internet mushroom site and occasionally leads mushroom forays, has a few ideas.

"Partly it’s the hunter-gatherer aspect. Perhaps it satisfies some basic instinct," he says. "There' the competition aspect, too - who can find the biggest, best mushroom? Then there's the idea that you know how to do something that others don't - and the fact that you're getting for free what other people pay lots of money for." Indeed, the heart-stopping prices of wild mushrooms undoubtedly add to the attraction. In some parts of the country, regulations now limit the amount of mushrooms that can be gathered at one time. In Epping Forest, would-be 'shroomers must first obtain a (free) licence from the Corporation of London (which manages the forest) and are limited to 1.5 kilos/3lb 5oz, while in the New Forest, the Forestry Commission also now restricts foragers to 1.5 kilos/3lb 5oz of mushrooms per visit.

If you're keen to try your hand at foraging, wild mushrooms grow throughout the year, but autumn offers the most abundant and varied seasonal eating. From late summer until the first frost, you can gather the likes of penny buns, chanterelles, field mushrooms and dozens of other varieties, many fit for the cooking pot, from Britain's forests and fields.

Before donning your Wellies and heading out to the woods, though, a word of caution is in order: some wild fungi are poisonous. It is only a minority of mushrooms and fungus that are good to eat, and there are several varieties that are potentially deadly. Some of the most deadly to be found in the UK are among the Amanita genus (which have suitably ominous common names like 'death cap' and 'destroying angel') and these can easily be confused for edible varieties.

There are no shortcuts to identifying edible fungi

Bearing in mind the dangers, it is highly recommended that you first find a knowledgeable guide. Michael Jordan, chairman of the Association of British Fungus Groups (ABFG), says, "I would definitely encourage novices to go out with someone who has good field experience". Other mycologists agree, stressing the need to positively identify all mushrooms before ingesting them, and discarding any that cannot be positively identified. Stefan Buczacki, past president of the British Mycological Society, says, "there is no substitute for collecting with someone experienced". His colleague Liz Holden emphasises that "there are no shortcuts to identifying edible fungi - none of the traditional 'rules' for separating the edible fungi from the poisonous (eg the cap of an edible fungus peels easily, brightly coloured fungus are poisonous, etc) can be relied upon".

No one, however, wants to discourage people from trying their hand at mushroom hunting. The best way to find forays in your area that are led by reliable guides is to look on the websites of the British Mycological Society and the ABFG. Wildlife Trusts are also a good starting point as is the Forestry Commission. As the aim of many groups is recording and conservation, collecting for food is not always welcomed, so do check in advance and be respectful of others' wishes.

So you've been a successful hunter-gatherer and have a profusion of fungi. Now what? When you get them home, have a good look through them and discard any that are soggy, maggot-infested or that have a musty odour. Do not wash them, but use a soft brush or a damp cloth to remove any debris and use a sharp knife to cut away damaged or soiled bits and to cut off tough stems. You'll only need to peel them if the skin is slimy. Some recommend separating stalks and stems and quartering the caps to ensure there is no infestation. Once they're prepared, mushrooms should be cooked and eaten as soon as possible.

Each edible variety of mushroom lends itself to particular kinds of preparation. Here are three of the best eating varieties you're likely to find, and suggestions on preparing and cooking them.

Chanterelle (Cantharellus cibarius)

Chanterelles grow particularly well in Scotland and in Scandinavia, where they are highly prized. The bright orangey colour can make them relatively easy to spot, but a number of inedible or poisonous varieties that are easily mistaken for them. Clean carefully with a soft brush and trim the bases. Sautee in butter with garlic and parsley and serve as a side dish, or add to omelettes or pasta dishes. Chanterelles don't dry well, so use them fresh.

• Chanterelles à la grecque by Phil Vickery

• Pasta for all seasons by Antonio Carluccio

Horn of Plenty or trompette de la mort (Craterellus cornucopioides)

Brown-black in colour, trompettes have a characteristic trumpet shape and a firm, almost leathery texture. They need very careful cleaning, as they can be gritty. Simply sauté in butter and serve with rice or pasta, or use in soups. They have an earthy flavour that works very well with wine-based and creamy sauces. Dries well.

• Poached eggs with wild mushrooms on toast by Curtis Stone

• Pot-roasted guinea fowl with wild mushrooms, chestnuts and truffled creamed potato by Brett Graham

Penny bun (Boletus edulis) and Bay boletes (Boletus badius)

Members of the boletus family are recognisable by the sponge-like, porous underside of the cap and the bulbous, fleshy base. Boletes are easier to recognise than most other varieties, but not all are edible (and some are poisonous). Penny buns are highly prized (known as ceps in France, porcini in Italy) and both these and the bay boletes are very delicious. Good, clean, young specimens can be served raw, with a drizzle of olive oil or truffle oil. Inspect older mushrooms carefully (they are prone to maggots); you may need to discard the stems. Once cleaned, they are delicious simply sautéed in olive oil or used in pasta dishes, cooked with potatoes or in risottos. Keep dried ones on hand to make a flavourful vegetable stock or add to autumnal stews.

• Risotto con porcini by Antonio Carluccio

• Porcini (cep) lasagne by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

• When collecting fungi, avoid using plastic bags; the lack of air will accelerate the decomposition process and make the mushrooms mushy. Use a basket instead.
• Never eat any fungus that you are not absolutely certain has been identified correctly.
• When trying any fungus for the first time, only eat it in small amounts to make sure the body can cope with it.
• Use a good field guide, but don't rely absolutely on pictures in books - differences between fungi can be difficult to spot. Go out with an experienced guide.
• Keep a small fresh portion of any mushroom you eat in the fridge. That way, if there is a reaction, you can easily identify the source.

Reviewed February 2009