Oats

A matter of taste

Goldilocks had it right when she tasted each bowl of porridge before settling on the version she deemed tastiest. It's all down to the choice of oat and cooking method - everyone has their own way of cooking it to their liking.

The most common porridge oats are rolled, rather than crushed during processing. The oats determine how hearty the finished porridge will be and how long it will take to cook. Basically, the finer the oat, the quicker the cooking time. That's why the instant porridge varieties, which are made from fine oats, tend to have an almost powder-like consistency.

Which oats to choose

But if you want your porridge quick, but not instant, opt for traditional, thick, whole oat flakes if you like a distinctive flavour and a substantial start to the day. Whole oat flakes are not cut before they are rolled, so they remain the bulkiest of the rolled oats.

If you prefer a slightly smoother consistency, choose standard rolled oats (they cook a little more quickly, too) which have a medium grain. This is also a good grade of oat for making oatcakes, biscuits or stuffing.

Scotch oats, which are also referred to as 'pinhead oats' are chopped, rather than rolled into small pieces and they are chewier than rolled oats. They are used for the most traditional method of cooking porridge, but they take much longer to cook than any other type of oat.

It's worth noting, though, that all varieties of oats have the same nutritional value. So, if you're in a hurry at breakfast and microwave porridge is your only option, you're still getting all the health benefits. However, if you have the chance, take the time to enjoy a therapeutic session of creating the gooey, creamy mixture the traditional way.

Serving oats

Porridge purists reject the instant varieties for the traditional pan method, which involves stirring the oats with a wooden 'spurtle'. There are some superstitious sorts who still claim that porridge should only be stirred using your right hand in a clockwise direction to ward off bad spirits.

Superstitious or not, if you want to be a true Scot, you should dismiss all thoughts of a 'luxury' version with brown sugar and cream, and instead prepare your morning tastebuds for porridge with salt. After all, porridge was made from water and oats long before anyone thought of making it with creamy milk and sugar.

Oats have been grown in Scotland since the late medieval period and porridge has long been notable as the staple diet of crofters throughout the land. The mixture would be prepared at the start of the week, then poured into a 'porridge drawer', where it was cooled and consumed by a family over the following days. The solid mixture could be sliced and taken out as lunch to be eaten cold or the slices could be fried up for breakfast.

Cooking with oats

Oatcakes are another cupboard staple in the Scottish household. Again, the flavour and consistency of the finished oatcake depends on the size and variety of oats used in the recipe. They're simple to make and the homemade variety often look and taste far more enjoyable than the ready-made varieties. Many Scots who still follow the tradition of high tea will include oatcakes, perhaps served with a chunk of Scottish cheddar or with a slice of smoked salmon. Or, for a truly Scottish treat, try a serving of haggis with oatcakes and a glass of whisky.

Oats are frequently used as a cooking ingredient, as in haggis and some varieties of sausage, or as a coating for herring or in dumplings. Oats can also be used in a variety of sweet treats, such as oat cookies or as an alternative crumble topping. For something traditional try the creamy, oaty dessert called cranachan. Scottish oats are toasted to a golden brown colour, before they are combined with fresh whipped cream, Perthshire soft berries and whisky to make a creamy dessert.

Healthy choice

Because the carbohydrates in oats are absorbed by the body slowly, you'll feel full for longer after eating a bowl of porridge. And it's certainly a good idea to 'get your oats' as they contain essential fatty acids, as well as more fibre than many other cereal grains. They are also a great source of vitamins E, B1 and B2.

Recipes

Oats aren't just for breakfast. If you want to get creative with oats, here are some recipes to get you started:

• Cranachan with fresh Skye raspberries by Shirley Spear from Saturday Kitchen
• Kibbe by the Vegan Society
• Mincemeat cake by Sue Lawrence from Sue Lawrence's Book of Baking
• Spiced oat biscuits by Antony Worral Thompson from Saturday Kitchen
• Podgy porridge by Jo' Pratt from Nation's Favourite Food