Marmalade

The first marmalade?

Stories about the origins of marmalade abound - some, inevitably, more believable than others. Food historians generally agree that the term 'marmalade' derives from the Portuguese word 'marmelada'. Marmelada was a solid paste made from cooked-down quinces and sugar, rather than the bittersweet preserve that we're familiar with.

According to the history books, in 1524, Henry VIII received a gift of a 'box of marmalade', which was likely to have been the quince sweetmeat. Mary Queen of Scots was one of the earliest fans of marmalade, it seems. It's said that during a bout of seasickness on a sailing from France to Scotland, it was the sugary substance made of quinces she turned to in order to ease her queasiness.

Meanwhile, the English were enjoying a variation of the spread, which was created by pounding soft fruits, such as apricots or plums, to a smooth pulp.

Modern marmalade

The 'invention' of marmalade as we know it is generally credited to the Scots. In a story that probably owes more to legend than fact, it is said that a Dundee woman, Janet Keiller, made the first shredded batch of marmalade in the 1790s. When faced with a pile of bitter oranges from Seville, she set about finding a use for them. Several hours later - with no doubt many copper pots to wash - modern marmalade was born.

Whether that story bears scrutiny or not, it's true that the Keiller family built the first marmalade factory in 1797. Thereafter Dundee was referred to as the 'home of marmalade'. And, while there's still a strong association between the city and the sticky treat today, there's only one remaining large-scale producer of orange marmalade in Dundee.

Marmalade is made in a number of styles. You're most likely to be spreading Dundee marmalade if it has a jelly consistency and contains shredded peel. Or, if you prefer a darker, thicker variety, then you are enjoying marmalade Oxford-style.

Is it jam or is it marmalade?

Ask a lawyer if you're unsure because, under European law, the word 'marmalade' can only be applied to fruit preserves made from citrus fruits. A product made with any other kind of fruit must be called 'jam'. Quite where this leaves chefs' inventions such as 'onion marmalade' and 'chilli jam' opens up a whole new debate.

So, if you want to stay on the right side of the law, you can make some marmalade at home, and mid- to late winter is the best time, when the bitter Seville oranges are available in abundance from Spain.

Cooking with marmalade

Whether you make your own marmalade or buy it, remember that it's not just good spread on toast, or in sandwiches Paddington Bear-style. For a more creative kitchen challenge, you could buy some of the fine varieties of marmalade available and try your hand at dishes which pop up on contemporary Scottish menus, such as marmalade ice cream. It's also great in cakes and steamed puddings. You can even use marmalade to glaze ham, gammon, lamb or chicken pieces with a bittersweet, sticky glaze.

If you're still not convinced that marmalade is capable of a life beyond the breakfast table, here are some recipes that might convince you otherwise:

• Marmalade chicken by Antony Worrall Thompson from Saturday Kitchen
• Bread and butter pudding with toasted oats, honey and whisky cream, by Rick Wakeman from Masterchef
• Baked ham by Slavka Bradley
• Oriental sticky chicken wings and drumsticks by Jo' Pratt from Nation's Favourite Food
• Citrus roast lamb by British Meat
• Moist carrot cake with coconut orange cream by Jo' Pratt from Nation's Favourite Food
• Flambéed bananas with kumquat marmalade sauce by Sophie Grigson