Autumn lamb

Pastoral pleasures

Mary had a little... well, you know the rest. This picture of innocent pastoral pleasure is subtly linked in our minds with the idea of 'spring' lamb as the most delectable of seasonal treats.

Combined with symbolic and religious rituals, especially at Easter, spring lamb equals sweet, succulent and juicy. But the sad fact is that such meat is all too often immature and bland, a pale imitation of 'autumn' lamb, as every good butcher knows.

All in a name?

The problem, perhaps, is one of terminology. Genuine spring lamb is born, not killed, in the spring. Market supplies start in early summer with meat from flocks raised in the mild lowland areas of southern England. Later, supplies come from new-season hill lamb from Wales, Scotland and Cumbria. As the animals graze and fatten on summer grass, their meat will become richer and sweeter, and take on a darker hue with a more pronounced marbling of creamy-coloured fat.

Centuries ago, 'new season' or 'spring' lamb were born from Dorset Horn sheep, an old breed that give birth naturally in autumn, so the first animals would be available for sale from Christmas onwards. Not every critic valued it though: noted food writer Dr Kitchiner (1817) remarked it was "prized merely because it is unseasonable and expensive". A small number of pure Dorsets still provide this early meat, but many other lambs are purpose-bred for the Easter market. They are often reared indoors, weaned quickly and given concentrated feed; the result is that they grow too fast, exercise little and produce insipid meat.

Rare-breed sheep

Despite this practice, sheep are the last domesticated animal to escape the worst horrors of intensive farming; British lamb is generally of good standard. There are, however, other factors than season that will add to the quality of the Sunday joint, such as breed and native habitat - that is, whether they're reared on upland, lowland or on marshland.

Pure-bred Romney Marsh sheep, for example, are still reared on the salty, coastal pastures that give their meat a special character. Like other rare breeds, their survival has been secured through the commitment of enthusiasts who understand the seeming paradox that only by developing a market (ie eating the meat!) will their commercial survival be ensured.

Ancient, hardy mountain breeds such as Soay, Scottish Blackface, Shetland, Herdwick, Manx Loaghtan and Welsh Mountain sheep are also gaining in popularity. These lean, mean, hill-climbing machines graze on heather, bracken and wild pasture and give lean, slightly gamey dark meat that is relatively low in cholesterol and saturated fat. Although the animals are smaller than their chubby lowland cousins, their meat-to-bone ratio tends to be higher.

When age matters

Age is another consideration. When lamb passes its first birthday, it is termed hogget, and at this age can make excellent eating. Well-known food writer and meat expert Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall also enthuses about the quality of meat from 'wethers' (castrated male sheep) that are usually slaughtered in their second to third year of fattening.

As sheep mature they become mutton, a word that has suffered from a negative PR image. The truth, however, is that mutton is not just a clapped-out piece of old lamb but a different product altogether. Happily, it is one that is coming back into fashion, thanks to the enthusiasm of a number of top restaurants throughout the country. His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales has also supported mutton farmers, setting up the Mutton Renaissance campaign in 2004. Top-quality British mutton is now available in butchers, farm shops and mail-order outlets throughout the country. Far from second-rate, mutton has the potential to be future first-choice.

Mutton vs lamb

Definitions of when lamb becomes mutton have long varied. However, it is now generally agreed that the animal should be aged two years or more, and hung for at least two weeks: the result is a juicy, well-flavoured meat, firm but not tough.

This meat is especially good for pies and puddings, slow-cooked curries and spicy Middle Eastern dishes, braises and pot-roasts. "Mutton has an intense, rich taste and a unique texture that is quite unlike lamb," says Henry Harris, chef/proprietor of Racine. "Cooking with mutton brings a convenience that is often overlooked: a simple mutton casserole or tagine can be left in a low oven for a few hours. The flavour of the mutton mellows and sweetens during the gentle cooking and delivers an eating experience that is truly delicious.

For too long, mutton has been underused and undervalued, but it's time to follow the flock. Especially in autumn.

Recipes

This autumn, perhaps it's time to come to terms with mutton. Here are some recipes to get you started:

• Boiled mutton with caper sauce from Keith Floyd
• Spiced mutton stew with apricots from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
• Leg of lamb or mutton baked in hay from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
• Irish stew by Myrtle Allen Floyd on Britain and Ireland

And, if you're not convinced about mutton, try these lamb recipes:

• Roast leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary (video recipe) by Mike Robinson from Get Cooking
• Roasted rack of lamb with a herb crust by English Beef and Lamb Executive
• Sweet lamb pie by English Beef and Lamb Executive
• Roast lamb with rosemary, shallots and beetroot by English Beef and Lamb Executive
• Roast lamb with stem ginger, plums and port by English Beef and Lamb Executive
• Lamb, shallot and date tagine by Paul Merrett from Fresh Food