Kyushu, Japan’s most southerly island, is famed for its hearty noodle soups made with pork bones. The truffled lobster gyoza dumpling gives it a luxurious glamour here.
1 sheet konbu seaweed
2 litres/3½ pints soft mineral water
80g/2¾oz katsuobushi flakes
200ml/7fl oz dashi
400ml/14fl oz tonkotsu pork stock
4 tsp soy sauce
4 tsp mirin
4 tsp sake
3 tbsp water
2 tsp rice vinegar
20g/¾oz dried porcini mushrooms
rapeseed oil, for frying
250g/9oz pork belly, rind removed
200ml/7fl oz dashi
200ml/7fl oz pork stock
200ml/7fl oz dry sherry
200ml/7fl oz root beer
100ml/3½fl oz soy sauce
100ml/3½fl oz maple syrup
3 tbsp beer
3 tbsp rapeseed oil
2 free-range eggs
1 free-range egg, yolk only
150g/5½oz 00 flour
½ tsp salt
dashi, for blanching
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
125g/4½oz 00 flour
2 tsp rice flour
5 tbsp boiling water
1 raw lobster tail, removed from the shell
10g/¼oz fresh black truffle, shaved
1 tsp chopped fresh chives
pinch sea salt
pinch freshly ground white pepper
1 free-range egg, white only
rapeseed oil, for frying
sake
5 tsp red miso paste
5 tsp tomato purée
5 tsp rapeseed oil
2 tsp truffle oil
1 tsp rapeseed oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
10g/¼oz Chinese black beans
2 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp black sesame seeds
5 tsp sesame oil
50ml/2fl oz avocado oil
20 leaves shiso
2 spring onions, green parts only
¼ tsp green yuzu-kosho paste
rapeseed oil, for deep-frying
20cm/8in rhubarb, cut into julienne 5cm/2in long
4 spring onions, white parts only, cut into julienne 5cm/2in long
16 enoki mushrooms, cut into julienne 5cm/2in long
For the dashi, place the konbu and water in a large pan and leave to soak for 10 minutes. Bring to a boil then turn the heat down and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the katsuobushi and set aside until all the flakes have sunk then strain through a muslin cloth. (This will make enough dashi for several dishes. It will keep in a fridge for two days, or for three months in a freezer.)
For the ramen tonkotsu pork stock, place the bones in a large stock pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil and cook for 10 minutes. Drain this water and briefly rinse the bones then return the bones to the pot and add the vegetables and about 4 litres/7 pints of water.
Boil rapidly for eight hours, skimming the scum frequently and replenishing with fresh water to keep the stock from over-reducing. Strain through a large sieve or colander lined with a muslin cloth. Season to taste with salt and reserve until needed.
For the ramen broth, combine all ingredients and bring to the boil. When the porcini have softened, remove and set aside. Strain the broth through a sieve lined with a muslin cloth and keep warm. Transfer to a decorative teapot just before serving.
For the ramen pork belly, heat a little groundnut oil in a casserole and sear the pork until golden-brown all over. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer for two hours, turning the pork occasionally, until the liquid has reduced to a sticky glaze. Leave the pork to cool in the pan, then cut it into 3cm/1¼in cubes. Set aside until needed.
For the ramen noodles, beat the beer, rapeseed oil, eggs and egg yolk together in a jug. Pour into a food processor and add the flour and salt then pulse until the mixture comes together to form a dough. Turn the dough onto a lightly-floured surface and knead until smooth.
Using a pasta machine, roll the dough out into a very thin sheet then cut into fine noodles using the capellini attachment. Dust the noodles with flour to prevent them from sticking together.
Bring a large pan of dashi to the boil, add the noodles and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain well then rinse under cold water. Drain again then transfer to a bowl and mix in the rapeseed oil. Set aside until needed.
For the gyoza wrappers, mix all ingredients together in a food processor and pulse until it forms a rough dough. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Roll out into a very thin sheet using a pasta machine and cut into twelve 8cm/3¼in circles with a round pastry cutter. Dust each disc of pastry with flour and cover with cling film to prevent the dough from drying out.
For the gyoza filling, roughly mince the lobster and combine with the truffle and chives. Season with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper.
To assemble the gyoza, place a teaspoon of filling into the centre of each wrapper then brush around the outside with a little egg white. Seal the edges with a series of pleats. Heat a little rapeseed oil in a lidded frying pan and fry the gyoza on one side for 2-3 minutes until golden-brown and crisp. Add a splash of sake to the pan and quickly cover with a lid. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to steam for 2-3 minutes, being careful not to shake the pan as this can damage the gyoza. (You may need to cook the gyoza in batches to prevent overcrowding the pan.) Carefully remove the gyoza from the pan and set aside until needed.
For the red aromatic oil, blend all ingredients together in a food processor into a thick, paint-like consistency.
For the black aromatic oil, heat the rapeseed oil in a frying pan and heat until smoking. Add the garlic and cook until charred then add the black beans, soy sauce and sesame seeds. Cook until the liquid has mostly evaporated then add the sesame oil and heat through briefly. Grind the mixture to a smooth paste with a pestle and mortar then transfer to a small bowl.
For the green aromatic oil, blend the ingredients in a food processor until very smooth then transfer to a small jug.
For the garnish, pat the reserved porcini mushrooms dry on kitchen paper. Heat the rapeseed oil to 190C/375F and deep-fry the porcini mushrooms until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous; do not leave unattended.)
To serve, smear some red oil across the bottom of a deep ramen bowl. Arrange the pork cubes in a line bisecting the red oil then arrange the noodles in front of the pork belly. Set the gyoza on top of the pork and arrange the garnish on top of the noodles. Pour the broth into the bowl, then drizzle over the black and green oils.
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