Ingredients
4 duck thighs
½ tbsp coarse salt
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp coriander seeds
5 juniper berries
110g/4oz duck or goose fat or lard
For the relish
450g/1lb damsons
45g/1½oz demerara sugar
10 juniper berries, crushed
a good sprig of thyme

Method
1. Dry the duck thighs on kitchen paper. Pound the salt with the peppercorns, coriander seeds and juniper berries until all are roughly crushed. Rub the mixture into the skin of the duck thighs and leave for 1-3 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 130C/250F/Gas 1.
3. Melt the duck or goose fat or lard over a gentle heat. Rinse the duck thighs and pat dry. Place in a close-fitting ovenproof dish. Pour over the melted fat.
4. Cover with foil and cook in the oven, turning the pieces every half hour or so, for about one-and-a-half hours or until thoroughly cooked through and tender.
5. Leave to cool in the fat. If not using immediately, cover with a clean piece of foil and store in the fridge.
6. To make the relish, put the damsons, sugar, juniper and thyme into a heavy-based saucepan and add a dash of water. Place over a moderate heat and cook gently until the juices begin to run.
7. Raise the heat a little and cook, stirring occasionally, until the damsons are tender, having split their skins. Draw off the heat and leave to cool. Store in a covered bowl until needed.
8. To finish the dish, preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7.
9. Take the pieces of duck out of their cooking fat and lay on a baking tray. Roast for 20-30 minutes until crisp, browned and heated right through.
10. Warm the relish gently and serve with the duck.

Both duck and relish can be cooked well in advance - several days - and reheated when called for.