Perfect salmon with a simple sauce

Ingredients

1 side of fresh salmon, about 1.5kg/3lb, skinned and boned
2 tbsp vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground white pepper

For the sauce:
200g/7oz unsalted butter, chilled and diced
2 shallots, finely chopped
250ml/8fl oz dry white wine
100ml/4fl oz whipping cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper

Method

1. To make the sauce, melt a little of the butter and fry the shallots gently for about 2 minutes over medium heat until they are soft and transparent. Add the wine, bring to the boil and boil until it has reduced to about 4 tablespoons of liquid. Pour in the cream and boil again for 1 minute. Lower the heat to low and start to whisk in the remaining butter, a tablespoon at a time. Continue to whisk until all the butter has been incorporated.
2. If the sauce seems to thick, add a little water; if it seems too thin, boil it carefully to reduce slightly (you must be careful if you do this, because of the high butter content). Season with salt and freshly ground white pepper and set aside just near to the stove top, in a warm but not at all hot place.
3. Ask your fishmonger for a skinless, boneless side of fresh salmon. You should probably order this at least 4 hours before you plan to pick it up. Check to see if he has also removed the small pin bones, in the middle of the fish, above the belly. If not, remove them yourself with a small pair of pliers. Paul usually trims the meat off the belly and the tail of the salmon (freeze it for a quiche or something), just using the thickest sections. This ensures even cooking. Portion it by cutting the side into six even slices.
4. Heat a heavy frying pan with the vegetable oil. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and place carefully in the pan. If it is not hot enough, the salmon slices will stick. Cook over medium heat for 4 minutes without moving the slices then turn them over and cook for another 3 minutes. They should be ready, you can take a peek inside by opening the flesh with a spatula or your fingers. If it is still a little pink, cook for another minute.
5. Serve on heated plates with just about any vegetable accompaniment you like and a good ladle of sauce.