Cocoa adds a depth and richness to the pasta dough in these sophisticated ravioli.
4 tbsp olive oil
½ carrot, peeled and chopped
½ celery stick, chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 dried porcini mushrooms, re-hydrated in boiling water
2 bay leaves
small sprig rosemary
small sprig thyme
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 juniper berries, crushed
2 French red-legged partridges
3 tbsp finely grated parmesan
2 tbsp ricotta
1 free-range egg, yolk only
knob unsalted butter
60g/2¼oz unsalted butter
For the pasta dough, place the sifted flours and cocoa on a flat, clean surface. Make a well in the centre, add the beaten eggs, egg yolk and olive oil and knead to a smooth dough. Wrap in cling film and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the pasta filling. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole and gently cook the carrot, celery, onion, porcini, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper and juniper berries until the onion is softened and golden-brown.
Remove the legs and breasts from the partridges. (The breasts are not used in this recipe. Store them in the fridge or freezer and keep for another occasion.) Add the partridge legs and carcasses to the casserole, brown on all sides, then add boiling water to 5cm/2in above the contents. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently for two hours until the leg meat falls easily away from the bone.
While still warm, pick the leg meat off the bone and finely chop it to a pulp, ensuring there is no shot. Mix it with the parmesan and ricotta. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and add half of the egg yolk. Discard the remaining half yolk.
Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pan and reduce until syrupy and thick – this is called a demi-glace. Just before serving, add the butter and whisk to emulsify.
To assemble and cook the pasta, roll the pasta through a pasta machine to a very thin sheet and use an 8cm/3¼in round cutter to cut out 12 circles of pasta.
Lightly whisk the reserved egg white and brush the edge of a pasta disc. Place a teaspoon of filling in the centre, fold the circle in half and close the ravioli, making sure that no air is trapped inside and the edges are well sealed. Repeat with the remaining pasta discs and stuffing. Cook the ravioli in a large pan of boiling salted water, in batches if necessary, for three minutes then drain well.
Meanwhile, make the beurre noisette. Place the butter in a heavy-based pan and heat until it turns a nut-brown colour. Remove from the heat and strain through a sieve lined with muslin cloth.
To serve, add the beurre noisette and parmesan to the drained ravioli, mix very gently then place three ravioili at the centre of each serving plate. Garnish with the demi-glace and thyme leaves and serve immediately.
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