Summer sipping

Drinks for summer

Summer's not just a season - it's a state of mind. Summer drinking requires a different approach, too. Lighter, fresher drinks take over from serious, highly pedigreed wines and spirits. Not only are they more refreshing, they're also a better match for fuss-free summer cooking.

Wines for summer

Light, fresh white wines

A perfectly chilled glass of white wine refreshes the parts that red wine can't at this time of year. Certain styles work better as summer drinks than others, though. Below is a selection of grape varieties and wine regions to look out for, and some recommendations for pairing with summery foods.

• Albariño: this wine from Galicia in northwest Spain has become deservedly popular recently. Its lemony, floral character makes it a great summer quaffer. It's also great with a range of seafood, from oysters to Galician-style grilled octopus.
• Riesling: an underrated grape variety with flavours of green apple and citrus. It's made in styles from bone-dry to very sweet, but look out for dry or off-dry styles from Germany, Austria and Australia's Clare Valley. They make great aperitifs and are a great match with Thai and Vietnamese cooking.
• Sauvignon Blanc: has forthright aromas of gooseberry, grass and green herbs. Wines from France (such as Sancerre), New Zealand and South Africa are among the best samples. Makes a great match with summery salads, asparagus and goat's cheese, as well as fish dishes.

Rosé wines

Once considered deeply naff, rosé wines have now shed their socially embarrassing image. There are still a lot of overly sweet, confected, characterless rosé wines out there, though, so choose carefully. Here are a few pointers:

• Buy the most recent vintage - it will taste fresher. The vast majority of rosé wines don't age, so there's no point in keeping them from one year to the next.
• Make sure it's dry. Sweet rosé is usually cheap rosé and is to be avoided. Read the label carefully and be prepared to spend the as much money as you would on a decent white or red wine.
• Serve it cold. Rosé wine is made in the same way that white wine is, but is made from red grapes. It goes with the same food styles as white wine, but can be even more versatile.
• Watch the alcohol level. Some rosé wines can have a whopping 15 per cent alcohol. Those with less alcohol tend to taste better and are less likely to cause headaches and hangovers, particularly if you're out in the sun.

Rosé wine with food - recipes

Wine-savvy drinkers in France and Spain know that good rosé is a great food wine. It's drunk with a wide range of dishes, from spicy bouillabaisse to garlicky grilled prawns and paella - particularly in the summer months. The key to its versatility is that it's uncomplicated and easy-drinking. It's as good with, say, barbecued chicken or burgers, as it is with more sophisticated dishes. Give it a whirl at your next barbecue, or try it with some of these recipes:

• Paella on the barbecue
• Rick Stein's carpetshell clams with aioli
• Piri-piri chicken
• Bouillabaisse

Pimm's and 'fruit cups'

Fruit cups such as Pimm's - alcoholic drinks flavoured with a variety of fruits and herbs - were all the rage in the 19th century. Having stood the test of time, they're just as popular in the 21st century. The best-known 'fruit cup' is undoubtedly Pimm's, but it's not the only one - a rival, Plymouth Gin Fruit Cup, was launched in spring 2003 and another, Stone's Summer Cup, was introduced in 2006.

History of the 'fruit cup'

Pimm's itself was invented 180 years ago in London by a man called James Pimm, a bartender at The Oyster Bar, in the City. It was originally sold as a health tonic - despite the alcohol content.

A century or so ago, there were six Pimm's Cups, based on various spirits, such as gin, vodka, whisky, rye, brandy and rum. These days, Pimm's makes just two, the best-known of which is the gin-based 'Pimm's No 1 Cup'. There is also a vodka-based version. The recipes for both drinks, say the makers, are 'a closely guarded secret known to only six people'.

Making fruit cups

Despite the range of flavours and aromas in these drinks, few people would drink Pimm’s or other fruit cups neat. These drinks are natural mixers, and really come into their own when enhanced with lemonade, ginger ale or tonic. Despite the ‘posh’ image, Pimm’s doesn’t suffer from taking itself too seriously.

Making the perfect fruit cup is all down to what you like. Get the biggest jug you can find, gather together seasonal fruits and herbs, add them in varying quantities and experiment, experiment, experiment.

There are as many recipes for making Pimm’s as people who drink the stuff, but there a few essential flavours. Cucumber and mint can’t be left out for a classic fruit cup, and if you consider yourself a classicist, adorn your glass with a sprig or two of borage and some borage flowers. Orange is nearly essential, strawberries hard to fault and apple is nice. Some people are even partial to cherries.