As the cold, dark nights draw in, November is the month for hunkering down in the kitchen and cooking up comforting stews and rib-sticking roasts.
As the cold, dark nights draw in, November is the month for hunkering down in the kitchen and cooking up comforting stews and rib-sticking roasts.
Long relegated to the Christmas table, Brussels sprouts have a dreadful reputation. Like miniature versions of the common cabbage, they have a sweet, nutty flavour, which some people can find too pungent. But, treated with a touch of love and care, these little buds can become a firm winter favourite.
Try them shredded, either eaten raw in a salad or flash-fried with bacon and plenty of butter or a few spoonfuls of crème fraîche. Throw in some chestnuts for a particularly seasonal treat that’s a perfect accompaniment to a Sunday roast. Or blanch whole sprouts briefly in boiling water, douse in cream and bake in the oven for a luxurious gratin.
Leftovers make delicious bubble and squeak. Mix the Brussels sprouts with mashed potato, shape into little patties and fry until golden-brown. Top with a poached egg for a simple brunch.
Celeriac is a large, knobbly root vegetable, the base of the stem of certain types of celery. It tastes quite similar to celery, although it also has a slightly nutty flavour. To prepare it, peel like a potato, rinse and keep in acidulated water until ready to use because it discolours quickly once cut.
Treat celeriac like other root vegetables: smother it in cream and top with cheese for a luscious gratin or make it into creamy purées with lots of butter. Try it blended into a smooth and silky soup, topped with pan-fried scallops for a decadent treat. Celeriac can also be shredded and eaten raw in salads such as a classic rémoulade.
The pheasant is a familiar sight in the British countryside, whether it’s the male with his magnificent plumage or the more subtle female (hen). A brace of pheasants (a male and female bird) is guaranteed to make for a tasty autumnal treat.
Pheasant is lean with a subtle gamey flavour. Most pheasants will have led an active outdoor lifestyle, so the legs can be tougher and more sinewy. Remove the legs and braise slowly in stews, then serve with buttery, mashed root vegetables. Pheasant breasts have little fat, so it’s important to keep them well basted when roasting and rest once cooked to keep them juicy. Try wrapping in a coat of bacon or smearing with lashings of butter.
For perfect pairings, think of other fruit and vegetables that are in season now, such as chestnut mash, sticky honey-roast parsnips, spiky apple chutneys or celeriac purée.
A cream-coloured nut with an edible light-brown skin enclosed in a knobbly beige shell. Walnuts have a short shelf life once shelled, so they're best kept in the fridge in an airtight container. For longer-term storage, it's best to buy walnuts in shells and shell them as you need them. If the shell is firmly sealed you can store them for a few months. Never keep nuts from one year to the next because the flavour and quality quickly deteriorate, and they may become rancid.
Walnuts add texture and crunch to salads. Pair them with goats’ cheese and a drizzle of walnut oil or stir them into a classic Waldorf salad. Pickled walnuts can be eaten with cold meats and cheeses - they go particularly well with blue cheese. Chopped walnuts also make a delicious addition to baked goods: add a handful to carrot cake or raisin and walnut bread. Walnuts are delicious in ice cream, toffee, fudge and other confectionery, such as walnut brittle or praline. Or enjoy a simple bowl of walnuts with a glass of tawny port.
Beetroot is a root vegetable with dark, purple skin and pinkish purple flesh. Look for small beetroots with the stalks still intact. To cook wash - but don’t peel - the beetroot and either boil, steam or bake until tender. Once cool enough, the outer skin should be rubbed off. To avoid stained hands, wash them and anything else you’ve used as soon as possible.
Roast beetroot goes perfectly with goats’ cheese and walnuts; try dressing this salad with a little walnut oil too. The thrilling fuchsia colour is best showcased in soups and risotto, paired with earthy spices and a dollop of cooling soured cream. Beetroot leaves and stems can also be eaten: cook them as you would any other spring greens.
The sweet, earthy flavour of beetroot and gaudy colour work well in cakes. Much like carrots, beetroot also has an uncanny ability to keep cakes moist. Chocolate and beetroot are a particularly heavenly combination.
Quince (Cydonia oblonga) belongs to the same family as apples and pears. It has a shape that's similar to a pear, but larger. It has lumpy yellow skin and its hard flesh is quite bitter so it shouldn't be eaten raw. When fully ripe, the quince has a wonderful perfume. It can be added to cooked apple and pear dishes or used to make quince sauce, and it makes excellent preserves, especially marmalade. Quince paste or 'membrillo' is a popular accompaniment to cheese in Spain.
