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10 July 2009
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Samphire

May

Celebrate the seasonal flavours of the majestic green stalks of English asparagus, the rare tang of salt marsh samphire and the early summer baubles of the reddest cherries in May.


Asparagus

Asparagus

The true British asparagus season is very short, lasting for about six weeks from late-April to mid-June. Asparagus is available from different parts of the world all year round, but British asparagus is well worth the wait for its unbeatable flavour and freshness.

Although asparagus was once only grown in certain areas of the UK, such as the Vale of Evesham, East Anglia, Kent and London, it is now grown in most of the UK. It's a great accompaniment to seasonal meats and fish. Steam, grill or roast it, add it to tarts or blend it into soups.


Cherries

Cherries

May sees the first cherries appearing from different parts of the world but unfortunately they are at their most expensive at this time. It's worth buying a few just to whet the appetite until we get into June and July, when domestic cherries become available and the price comes down.

Nothing could be better than a bowl of sweet cherries, but sweet and sour varieties are excellent in pies, preserves, compotes or sauces to accompany duckling. There are traditional cherry recipes all over the world; sour cherries are made into a hot or cold soup in parts of Eastern Europe, Germany is famous for kirsch (a distilled cherry spirit) and, of course, Black Forest gâteau, while the French make clafoutis, a hearty and delicious batter pudding made with sweet cherries.


Courgettes

Courgette flowers

Now is the time to enjoy small and flavoursome courgettes. The Italians and North Americans call them "zucchini", though the French and Brits keep in mind their relationship to the courge (French for marrow) and call them "courgettes", as they are essentially marrows picked early. In general, the smaller they are, the more flavour.

They can be poached, blanched, stuffed, baked, fried, steamed or stewed, and taste great combined with garden herbs. Or try them preserved in vinegar, made into fritters or stirred into risotto. If you’ve grown your own, you can make good use of the flowers too: stuff them with ricotta and deep fry until crisp.


Duck

Five-spice duck breasts with honey and soy

Traditionally, ducks in Britain were bred in Aylesbury, but now most duck production takes place in Lincolnshire. Even though duck is farmed and available all year round, it's at Easter and Christmas that larger, fresh birds are available. It's true that duck has a hefty layer of fat but don't let that put you off. The fat ensures that the meat underneath is tender and flavoursome and most of it melts away during cooking, leaving a crisp skin.

Whole roast duck is delicious served with a fruity sauce; traditionally these are based on orange or plum, but try a sauce made with blueberries or cherries instead. Duck breast portions make an elegant dinner party main course, seared skin-side down and served with seasonal stir-fried vegetables. Try duck confit made with the leg portions, where the fat melts away leaving succulent flesh that falls off the bone. If the calories don't worry you, then don't discard the melted fat. Store it in a jar in the fridge and use it to make the most delicious roast or sautéed potatoes.


Elderflowers

Elderflowers

The white flowers from elderberry trees must be cooked before eating. They can be used to flavour cooked fruit and jam and make a sound match with gooseberry, which is also great at this time of the year.

The flour heads can be combined with citric acid to make cordial, which in turn makes a useful ingredient for adding to sauces and jellies.


Jersey Royal new potatoes

The unique growing conditions in Jersey (the combination of the gentle climate, the steep slopes and the seaweed used as a fertiliser) produce these delicate new potatoes.

They are delicious simply cooked in butter, added to Spanish omelette, simmered in a seasonal broth or made into salad. Leave the skins on as much of the flavour (and the vitamin C goodness) can be found just under the skins.


Mint

Mint

There are many different species of mint, but the one used most widely in Western cooking is spearmint, native to the Mediterranean and widely cultivated in the UK. It can be ground into mint sauce or jelly - the ultimate accompaniment to roast lamb.

Mint is also a great addition to light summer soups (it pairs especially well with pea, courgette, asparagus and other green vegetables good at this time of year). Plus it’s a great garnish for desserts and drinks - try it sprinkled over sugared strawberries or add it to fruit drinks, cocktails or Moroccan-style sweet tea.


Samphire

Samphire

Samphire is a sea vegetable that grows abundantly on shorelines, marshy shallows and on salty mudflats. It has a crisp texture, salty flavour and tastes of the sea. Traditionally, it's served with fish and good fishmongers sell samphire at this time of year.

It can be served fresh in salads or laced with melted butter as a vegetable. Wash thoroughly under running water and don't add salt to the cooking water - it's already salty enough.


Sea trout

Sea trout

Sea trout, or salmon trout, is a fish that combines the best features of the trout's delicate and tender texture and the salmon's fine flavour and pink flesh.

Sea trout are so called because they swim to the sea to feed and fatten up before returning to the fresh water of the river to spawn. The result is a delicious fish that can be poached in wine with herbs, baked in foil, baked covered in yoghurt and cream, or pan-fried in butter with capers and served with new potatoes.


Also in season

Lemon soleartichoke I aubergine I bananas I broccoli I carrots I cod I courgette I crab I Dover sole I fennel I haddock I halibut I herring I John Dory I kiwi fruit I lamb I lemon sole I mackerel I plaice I new potatoes I radishes I rhubarb I rocket I salmon I sardines I sea bass I sorrel I spinach I spring onions I strawberries I trout I watercress I wood pigeon


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In Lifestyle

Sophie Grigson on growing your own veg
Get Cooking: Cook's guide to fish
The perfect picnic
Making the most of asparagus
Spring gardening

Elsewhere on bbc.co.uk

Springwatch

Elsewhere on the web

Spring recipes from Epicurious
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