Be prepared for a bounty of summer treats as July's crops come into fruition. Make the best of blueberries, raspberries and cherries while they're at their juicy best.
Be prepared for a bounty of summer treats as July's crops come into fruition. Make the best of blueberries, raspberries and cherries while they're at their juicy best.
At this time of year, cherries are ripe for the picking, so look out for the telltale punnets of deep red cherries in the markets from mid-July to the end of August.
The best cherries are plump, firm, glossy and free of blemishes; the stems should be fresh and green. Unlike fruit such as peaches, cherries benefit most from being stored at cooler temperatures - warmth can compromise flavour and texture. Eat sweet cherries straight off the stalks, or remove the stones before stirring into Greek-style yoghurt with a drizzle of honey. Dried sour cherries impart that all-important sweet-sour tang to many Iranian and Middle Eastern dishes; alternatively they're just the thing to add a little extra pizzazz to your morning muesli. Sour cherries are an excellent foil for fatty meats, and so are perfect for giving a classic duck dish a summer twist - try adding it to sauces or chopping the flesh into spicy salsas.
A perfect bedfellow for rich ingredients such as chocolate, cream and alcohol, it's no surprise that perhaps the most iconic cherry dessert is the Black Forest gateau. With its decadent layers of deep, dark chocolate, fluffy cream and kirsch liqueur, the tartness of the fruit sings through loud and clear. So with this in mind, the possibilities are endless - warm cherry pies with cold cream, or nursery favourites such as cherry jellies and ices given a spike with some rum or vodka.
Blueberries are related to bilberries and grow in peaty soils or wherever heather grows. They're one of the more recent examples of wild fruit being made commercially available. They are small, round, plump berries that are blue-black in colour and have a mild sweetness.
In recent years the blueberry has been lauded for its nutritious qualities, because they're loaded with anthocyanins, which give the berry its blue colour and high levels of antioxidants. When cooked, the blueberry lends an intense flash of deep purple-blue to cakes, puddings, sauces, jams and relishes. Some of the best-known blueberry recipes come from the US and include blueberry pie, muffins, cheesecake and pancakes.
A vegetable native to the warmer climates of the Mediterranean, the aubergine was introduced to Britain about 300 years ago. There are many varieties; size, colour and shape can vary enormously. Choose aubergines that feel heavy and have unblemished skins and fleshy stalks.
This humble plant has played a major part in many popular regional cuisines throughout the world - in French ratatouille, say, or roasted and whipped into baba ganoush in traditional Levantine style. Roasted and marinated aubergines can be served as antipasti, with plenty of olive oil and fresh herbs. The slightly bland flavour of the aubergine makes it the perfect blank slate to which rich and aromatic spices and herbs can be added; slicked with miso and grilled, for example, or gently stewed with stock, chilli bean paste and Shaoxing wine for a classic Chinese dish with minced pork. In India, Iran and Afghanistan, aubergines are made into hot, spicy pickles to whet the appetite.
Previously, it was advised to salt aubergines to draw out any unpleasant bitterness, but with many modern varieties this is an unnecessary step; salting, however, is useful if the aubergine is to be cooked in oil, as it prevents the flesh from absorbing too much during cooking.
Perfectly ripe peaches are one of life's pleasures, and summer is the best time to seek them out. Originating from China but now grown in warm climates throughout the world, the peach made its way to Europe via Persia.
Look for fruit that is smooth with soft, velvety skin and a bright complexion and avoid hard or wrinkled peaches with blemishes or green tinges. A ripe peach will yield gently to palm pressure, suggesting a state of being, as William Morris so expressively put it, 'pinch-ripe'. Do not store peaches in the fridge, which can cause their flesh to turn floury or mealy.
Fresh peaches are second to none, and are perfect eaten as they are (with the obligatory peach juices running down faces and arms!), though extra decadence can be added with lashings of freshly whipped cream or a drizzle of honey to enhance their sweetness. Caramelising the flesh on a hot griddle will add an extra dimension, and poaching the fruit in wine is also a worthy way of serving it. Purée the fruit and use in a classic Italian Bellini recipe for a summery cocktail, or chill into an icy sorbet. Tarts, pies and crumbles will all put peaches to good use.
Florence fennel looks like a bulbous celery plant and has a sweet aniseed flavour, which is stronger when eaten raw and less pronounced when cooked. The ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Romans enjoyed its finer qualities long before it was introduced to Britain from Italy in the late 17th century. Choose blemish-free bulbs that are pale green and firm, which indicates crispness and freshness.
For those who like raw fennel, try mixing thin slices into a green salad or shredding it with citrus fruit. Fennel is excellent for making soup or it can be poached, steamed or briefly boiled. Braising it slowly makes it sweet and tender and it is excellent served with fish and chicken.
This flashy fish, with its iridescent grey-blue - almost green - stripes and dark, curving lines, is as good to look at as it is to eat. Mackerel are at their peak season in July, so keep an eye out for them at your local fishmonger. Freshness is of utmost importance - mackerel, like many oily fish, tend to spoil more quickly than white fish. As with all fish, check for firm, shiny bodies and clear, bright eyes.
Mackerel's intense, almost creamy meat (which is rich with omega-3 fatty acids) works well with strong, spicy flavours and a touch of acidity. Try grilling the fish whole on the barbecue with coarse sea salt and a generous squeeze of lime, or simply pan-fry and serve with a refreshing mint and mustard vinaigrette. Avoid heavy, cream-based sauces - the richness of mackerel is enough of a stomach filler as it is!
