Bask in the never-ending warmth of August and luxuriate in the endless variety of seasonal produce on offer this month.
Bask in the never-ending warmth of August and luxuriate in the endless variety of seasonal produce on offer this month.
This sour-tasting herb complements most types of fish, especially oily varieties such as salmon and delicate white fish such as lemon sole. It is also a natural ally of shellfish such as crab and lobster.
Try adding butter and chopped fresh sorrel to the pan juices once the fish is fried, then serve drizzled over the fish. Or, reduce a glass of white wine with the pan juices and stir in cream and chopped sorrel. Alternatively, substitute sorrel leaves for tarragon in a revamped hollandaise sauce.
If fish isn't your thing, add sorrel to a roast chicken, French omelette or Spanish tortilla, or chop it into a simple herb or goats' cheese salad. The leaves can be blanched before use if they taste too sharp.
Despite kicking off its season in August, rabbit benefits from slow-cooking methods usually associated with chilly winter nights: the meat tenderises after a long spell in the oven steeped in hearty stock or thick gravy, and expectations mount for a taste of a nostalgic, melting mouthful.
Rabbit meat needs bold flavours that can compete with its gamey flavour. Simmer it in cider or beer, or deglaze the cooking pan with Calvados. Or put it in the ring with pungent garlic and rosemary and earthy wild mushrooms and let it do its stuff. Be adventurous: stir rabbit into a creamy pasta sauce, such as Simon Rimmer's Rabbit and walnut linguine, or let it share the plate with shellfish, chocolate, or South-East Asian-inspired ingredients such as lemongrass. You won’t be disappointed.
Over the summer months, there are plenty of ways to enjoy rabbit without getting hot and bothered in the kitchen. Work the meat into a terrine or pâté and serve with fruity homemade chutney and Melba toast to spruce up a buffet or start an al fresco meal as you mean to go on. Or try pairing fried rabbit loin with salty meat such as prosciutto or seasonal fruit such as gooseberries. Alternatively, make like Elmer Fudd and cook up a succulent rabbit pie that can be chilled and taken on picnics.
Traffic-light bright and shiny, peppers are welcome guests at the summer table. Although native to the Americas, crunchy peppers are synonymous with Mediterranean dishes and marry perfectly with other seasonal staples such as aubergines, courgettes and tomatoes. Stew these ingredients together in a pepperonata and serve warm with crusty bread and thick slices of pan-fried pork fillet, or layer thick slices of fried pepper, aubergine and courgette with mozzarella and grill until the cheese has melted.
Choose your capsicum to suit your dish and experiment with different varieties. Green peppers are the most bitter, and work well in tangy dishes such as goulash. Reds are all-rounders: incorporate them into stir fries, ratatouille, or pasta sauces. Spanish dishes also make heavy use of red peppers and paprika, a derivative of the Anaheim pepper variety. Try piquillo peppers, which work well as tapas, either stuffed with soft cheese or served with pan-fried slices of chorizo. Or, ring the changes with pleasantly sweet Romero peppers.
Yellow and orange pepper varieties bring sweeter notes to salads or dishes such as sweet-and-sour pork. Try stuffing them with herbed couscous and serving alongside a thick slab of chargrilled tuna.
This being barbecue season, the flesh of peppers is juicy and robust enough to withstand fiery hot coals. Griddle the pepper halves, then drizzle with pesto and sprinkle over toasted breadcrumbs - a simple accompaniment to barbecued meats. Or, thread pepper pieces onto skewers with cubes of succulent pork or marinated chicken and offer them up to the grill.
Melons must be summer's most man-handled fruit. However, when they're in season, it's difficult to go wrong, whichever one you end up taking home. Just press the ends firmly - if they yield slightly to the pressure, they should be ready to eat. The other clue is aroma: a ripe one should smell sweetly aromatic.
Different melon varieties peak at different points in the season, so this summer, make the most of this versatile fruit in all its varieties. Slice honeydew melons and lay paper-thin slices of Spanish cured ham, preferably pata negra, over them for a simple starter. Or cut cantaloupe melons in half and scoop out the flesh using a melon baller. Return the melon balls to the hollowed-out melon, then pour in a generous splash of violently coloured port.
To accompany main courses, liven up savoury salads with pieces of Charantais melon and fresh young cheese. Or be thrifty and use dried melon seeds to thicken soups and sauces or to sprinkle over salads; they add an extra layer of flavour. For dessert, plate up a medley of mini melon treats: top up a watermelon with vodka for a week in advance, then serve a boozy chunk of it alongside a scoopette of honeydew sorbet and a shot glass filled with cantaloupe fool.
Sun-warmed tomatoes picked straight from the vine are the ideal way to enjoy the fruit. But even if you aren't green-fingered, there's no better time to seek out these ripe red orbs.
Nobody needs advice on how to cook tomatoes - they're faithful bedfellows to cheese in sandwiches, they give a vitamin boost to a full English and they make any salad worth its salt. However, if inspiration beckons this summer, try roughly chopping peeled, ripe tomatoes and adding a hint of fresh basil and a pinch of salt. Serve this simplest of salsas with homemade burgers. Or finely chop tomatoes and stir them into tabbouleh or herbed couscous.
If your garden yields a glut of tomatoes, blend them to a purée and mix Bloody Mary cocktails for your friends. Or cut ripe tomatoes in half and rub them vigorously all over crusty bread, Spanish style - the tomato flesh will reduce to a delicious pulpy spread. For added bite, rub a garlic clove over the bread first. Serve with olive oil, for dipping. ¡Buenísimo!
There are competing explanations for John Dory’s curious name. It is most likely to be down to the British mispronunciation of the French adjectives 'jaune' (yellow) and 'dorée' (golden), which refer to the gilded colouring of the fish. It seems a sensible explanation for a fish linked to Saint Peter: according to legend, the black marks on either side of it are his thumbprints, which were imprinted onto the fish when he threw it back into the Sea of Galilee.
Saint Peter didn't know what he was missing, as this meaty fish has firm flesh that won't flake apart when fried, making it a perfect ingredient for that most British of suppers: fish and chips. Whip up a light tempura batter, substituting sparkling water for ice cold beer. Add just enough liquid to the flour for the mixture to have the consistency of double cream. Heat the oil thoroughly, then deep fry the batter-coated fish fillets until crisp and bubbling. For summer, serve with new potatoes and freshly podded, boiled peas mixed with chopped fresh mint and butter.
The subtle flavours of John Dory require a punchy sidekick. Blend plenty of coriander and garlic in a food processor with one part lemon juice to two parts extra virgin olive oil and drizzle it over the pan-fried fillet. Or flake the meat into a Thai-style curry sauce, made with coconut milk, finely chopped lemongrass, red chilli, ginger, lime leaves, and fresh coriander, then serve in bowls with steamed rice. Alternatively, rub a little harissa over the fish before roasting it in the oven. Pop a lemon half into the roasting tray, then squeeze it over the roasted fillet before serving - the juice will be pleasantly sweet and sticky. For a fish supper with a kick, follow the lead of 18th century actor James Quin, who was so passionate about the fish that he joked about 'good John Dory' being a perfect match for 'delicate Ann Chovy'.
Crayfish are significantly smaller, freshwater cousins of the lobster. When sourcing crayfish, remember that the native British white-claw is a protected species, so you should be sold signal crayfish, which have a distinctive red underside.
Signal crayfish are not a native species and, since their importation from the Western United States, have colonised many waterways in the UK, pushing out the native white-claw.
Crayfish are generally suitable for the same treatment as large prawns or langoustines. With such sweet meat, simplicity is key: eat cooked fresh crayfish with mayonnaise and a dash of lemon juice, or fry them in paprika, garlic and plenty of olive oil and stir into pasta. Chef Richard Corrigan recommends boiling crayfish in salted water with a healthy dose of bronze fennel, for flavour, and serving them alongside thin slices of buttered granary bread. Crayfish are also delicious in risottos, soups and stews.
