Nature Features

John Wright is one of Dorset's best known fungus experts (mycoloist).  He advises Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and has appeared at the River Cottage centre in West Dorset as the resident mushroom specialist.

He knows his stuff - having eaten 112 of the 3,500 known fungi species, John says smell and colour are the key to identifying mushrooms in the wild, but knowing the difference between the edible and poisonous species is paramount:

Mushroom expert, John Wright

"If you go out into the field and start picking things willy-nilly then eventually you'll come a cropper and you could end up killing yourself."  John's advice is to go out with an expert to learn how to identify what could be a bewildering number of different types of fungus.

What to look for

Foraging for mushrooms is a popular pastime although you do need to know what you are looking for - some species, like common wood mushrooms have species which look just like them - in this case the poisonous yellow stainer.

Prized eating mushrooms include Ceps (Boletus edulis), earthstars (Sclerodermatacae) which are related to puffballs and chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius).  Horse mushrooms and parasols are more readily available in fields in Dorset.

Beech and open mixed woodlands are good locations for many of the edible species – but they can also be found in conifer plantations.

And as for what to do with your crop, John has some more simple advice: "Sauteed in butter with garlic and cream. An absolute joy, it'll make you want to sing!"

Misty mornings - perfect for mushrooms

Conservation issues

However there are conservation issues surrounding the collecting of wild mushrooms.

Both the New Forest and parts of Dorset are popular venues but despite restrictions in some areas there is concern that professionals are taking more than their fair share.

The Forestry Commission in the New Forest has prepared a leaflet asking pickers to restrict their activities to 1.5kg a day. Certain areas are also out of bounds for conservation purposes.

While many just pick for their own table there is evidence that professional mushroom picking continues, especially in the New Forest. Most of the mushrooms end up on the tables of posh restaurants, usually in London.

There is also a flourishing trade in mushrooms by post. For example a kilogramme of some mushrooms, like Ceps', could set you back around £20 and people pay much more for rarer varieties.

This year there will also be problems for those caught in possession of fresh so-called magic mushrooms which contain natural hallucinogenic chemicals.

Under the 2005 Drugs Act these are classed as Class "A" drugs - the same as heroin, with possession punishable by up to seven years in jail - and supplying up to life in prison.

That law only came into being earlier this year and this will be the first season with it in effect. It affects species such as Liberty Cap and Fly Agaric - the white spotted, red capped mushrooms.