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You are here > Talkwales message boards > Off The Lip > Wave size

Discussion:

Wave size

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Message 1 - posted by theoctagon (U2899252) , Apr 18, 2006

Can you guys help settle an argument as to how to rate the sizes of waves? I've noticed that what one person considers to be a 1ft wave another would consider as 2-3ft.

I always thought that you went on the size of the face just before the wave breaks. And that you judge that size in feet. I realise that wave data that comes from buoys is different to what you will actually see breaking on the beach for various reasons.

I was chatting to a guy the other day though about it and i asked what he considered to be a 1ft wave, he held out his hands to indicate the size and if you measured the distance between his hands with a ruler it would probably be about 2.5ft. I told him he was talking balls and walked off!

Anyone got any opinions?

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Message 2 - posted by my-name-is-not-brad (U2612774) , Apr 18, 2006

you cant confuse a 3ft wave with a 1ft wave.

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Message 3 - posted by Werg (U1669727) , Apr 18, 2006

I'm ready to contribute to this debate just as soon as I figure out what an "indo" board is....

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Message 4 - posted by WTR (U1644988) , Apr 18, 2006

yeah...the guy was correct. age old debate usually started by people who are new to surfing.

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Message 5 - posted by gull (U1549291) , Apr 18, 2006

we've been here before I feel? winkeye

call me old fashioned but I measure peak to trough on the wave face and use my foot as a measure, so a foot is a foot.

I don't think I've ever called it wrong either! - my foor is available upon request...

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Message 6 - posted by jamez (U1645346) , Apr 18, 2006

got a building job coming on soon, is yer foot for hire?

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Message 7 - posted by WTR (U1644988) , Apr 18, 2006

1ft = 2ft
2ft = 3/4ft
3ft = 5/6ft
4ft = 6/7ft
5ft = 8ft
6ft = 9/10ft
8ft = 12ft

easy.

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Message 8 - posted by theoctagon (U2899252) , Apr 18, 2006

sorry to start a discussion that's been done before, I'm new to the board but not new to surfing.

A foot is a foot is a foot as far as i'm concerned, and unless wounded gull has got clown feet I agree with him!

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Message 9 - posted by GyrO (U2380644) , Apr 18, 2006


I defo got clown feet - that is why everytime i pop up i end up tripping, face planting on my board on the way down, tumbling for 10 mins end then end up with a fin in the balls....... Dont matter if its 1 ft or 10ft the result is always the same........ LOVE IT

laugh

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Message 10 - posted by WTR (U1644988) , Apr 18, 2006

not new to surfing you say, how long may I ask?

1ft in surfing is not 1ft, ask anyone who has surfed for more than 4 years (before the kook influx) and they will tell you the same.

this discussion should be shut down now, although I am actually discussing it. steam

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Message 11 - posted by theoctagon (U2899252) , Apr 18, 2006

Longer than 4 years, still seem to have the same problems as Gyro tho!!

I can understand that if a buoy is reading 3 to 4 ft that will probably equate to maybe 2ft on the beach if the conditions are right. But that 2ft on the beach is still about 12inches which is about 60cms which is about 600mm, from trough to peak.

Anyway, prob have to agree to disagree i guess!

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Message 12 - posted by theoctagon (U2899252) , Apr 18, 2006

whoops, meant 24inches doh

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Message 13 - posted by bigfeller1 (U1639597) , Apr 18, 2006

have a look at the graphic for gennith wave height on the langland cam - on a day that there IS a wave at gennith - that gives an idea.

I take it as being a measure of the part of the wave which is steep enough to get going on.

how long is a piece of string?

I also find that whatever size is given for a break on any given day,there will be the odd set which is bigger, and obviously many which are a lot smaller. I work on the assumption that peope are generally talking about the size of an average SET wave.


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Message 14 - posted by gull (U1549291) , Apr 18, 2006

I have to disagree walker, your wave calculations have the air of kookdom about them! laugh

when did a 1 foot wave become 2ft?

I've never heard such nonsense

this is WHY everyone gets confused!

end

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Message 15 - posted by gull (U1549291) , Apr 18, 2006

one thing I would like to add...laugh

I find surfers in the SE do tend to estimate 'larger' and I've met a fair few who measure from the back which again I find stoooopid, esp in uk waters.

maybe a sweeping generalisation but...from my experience, Pembs surfers tell it, how it is!

(apart from adam pitters if he's been eating things from the field again!) winkeye

Maybe it's because we're used to surfing bigger swells? I don't know?!

I've never had this conversation before tbh until I moved to Cardiff and began surfing Porthcawl and Gower spots.

we have a standard measurement - feet.

1FT = 1FT...it's not rocket science

If we all USE IT, the problem quickly evaporates.

now lets not get into the chest high, shoulder high, head high debate pls!

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Message 16 - posted by Werg (U1669727) , Apr 18, 2006

one thing I would like to add...laugh

I find surfers in the SE do tend to estimate 'larger' and I've met a fair few who measure from the back which again I find stoooopid, esp in uk waters.

maybe a sweeping generalisation but...from my experience, Pembs surfers tell it, how it is!

(apart from adam pitters if he's been eating things from the field again!) winkeye

Maybe it's because we're used to surfing bigger swells? I don't know?!

I've never had this conversation before tbh until I moved to Cardiff and began surfing Porthcawl and Gower spots.

we have a standard measurement - feet.

1FT = 1FT...it's not rocket science

If we all USE IT, the problem quickly evaporates.

now lets not get into the chest high, shoulder high, head high debate pls!

Quoted message from gull




hear! hear!
(here, here? No, there, there!!)

Pull in

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Message 17 - posted by WTR (U1644988) , Apr 18, 2006

WG - You can't tell me that a 6ft wave is 6ft (head high), you of all people know that. The problem I think with the SE is that most of the surfers there are newbies (relatively) and haven't grown up in a surfing "community".

If you're truly honest with yourself you'd have to say that your as guilty as most of bigging up the wave size, perhaps the SE mentality has affected you. winkeyelaugh

Perhaps a little section on wave heights with corresponding piccies would help people in need of educating.

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Message 18 - posted by theoctagon (U2899252) , Apr 18, 2006

Didn't want to start arguments, just wondered what general consensus was and wanted to try and get my own head round it, sorry!! blush

cheers to those who responded tho

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Message 19 - posted by WTR (U1644988) , Apr 18, 2006

darn't worry 'bout eet maarn.

boys just having a laugh. never anything serious on here.

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Message 20 - posted by gull (U1549291) , Apr 18, 2006

WG - You can't tell me that a 6ft wave is 6ft (head high), you of all people know that. The problem I think with the SE is that most of the surfers there are newbies (relatively) and haven't grown up in a surfing "community".

If you're truly honest with yourself you'd have to say that your as guilty as most of bigging up the wave size, perhaps the SE mentality has affected you. winkeyelaugh

Perhaps a little section on wave heights with corresponding piccies would help people in need of educating.

Quoted message from WTR




ok, you provide the 1ft shots and I'll do the rest!laugh

I think this is a good idea though and maybe we can put this one to bed once and for all. Trouble is we dont agree on wave height as you call 1ft, 2ft so it's never going to work?! is it?

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