County Down is the South Eastern County of the six counties that make up the region of Northern Ireland. It is 2,448 square km (945 square miles) and is home to 454,000 people or approximately one third of Northern Ireland's population. The average price of a house in September 2005 in the county was £150,625.
At the northern end it is bounded by the River Lagan as it flows into and through Belfast then out in to Belfast Lough. To the west lies County Armagh home of the Catholic and Anglican Churches in Ireland. To the East lies the Irish Sea and to the south lies County Louth largely across Carlingford Loch.
Geography
County Down has the highest peaks in Northern Ireland; both the River Bann and River Lagan Northern Ireland's two main rivers rise in the Mourne Mountains. But this is a coastal mountain range and as Percy French made well known, in his famous song, south of Newcastle 'The Mountains o' Mourne sweep down to the sea'.
It is possible to climb the highest peak Slieve Donard from the beach at Newcastle to its 850m (2,796 ft) peak in a morning. It is named after St Domhangart, a contemporary of St Patrick.
North of the mountains the plain is covered in one of the best examples of a drumlin landscape in the world. The drumlin fields of Ireland stretch from Down to Mayo. Drumlins are small egg shaped hillocks left by glacial moraine. They can appear like a basket of eggs and the result is the interesting network of roads through Down which follow the rise and fall and twists of the drumlins they encounter.
The drumlins also feature in another of Down's great geographic features, Strangford Lough1. At the narrowest crossing point between Strangford and Portaferry it is only 500 metres across. Behind this point is 150 square kilometres of shallow salt Lough. One third of this area is exposed at low tide revealing mud flats and some of the alleged 365 islands, water covered drumlins in the Lough.
All the glacial deposits in the plains, plus being in the rain shadow2 of the Antrim Plateau and the Mournes, means that the rich soil is ideal for agriculture with just the right ammount of rainfall for a variety of crops. The Ards Peninsula on the seaward coast of Strangford Lough is the market garden of Northern Ireland producing a wealth of fruit and more fragile vegetables.
History
The county is full of sites of archaeological interest from stone circles to hill forts and settlements along the river valleys. The rivers and low lying plans have long been resources that have been utilised by settlers.
Two of Ireland's major ancient tribes are known to have inhabited Down from c. 6000BC. The Érainn definitely inhabited land from mid Down to the Glens of Antrim. Also the Cruthin, who bore a Gaelic version of the name Briton, may well have come from across the sea inhabiting similar areas and give their name to the Crown Mound (Áth Cruithean) just to the north of Newry.
The Celts came from c. 500BC to Ireland as they were driven out of North West Europe by the Roman expansion. There is evidence of Celtic hill and ring forts in Down, such as the ring forts at Castle Skreen and Dundrum. Also their intricate metal working has been found.
Ptolemy lists Dunum, present day Downpatrick, on his list of Irish towns in AD130. Bangor had an Abbey from early Celtic Christian days and therefore with Downpatrick also appears on the oldest Mapa Mundi3.
Many of the place names along the coast Strangford, Carlingford, Bangor show the Norse influence to coastal Down. The Vikings used bases in Ireland to attack the Britons and set up some settlements in Ireland to do so. Down has many sheltered bays which made natural harbours for the Vikings to moor up and rest before launching attacks on the West coast of Britain.
The Normans also fortified much of Down to defend their claim on the English crown. There are Norman motte-and-baileys or their remains at Ardkeen, Ballynarry, Ballyroney, Clough and Dromore. Greencastle, overlooking Carlingford Lough, was a stone-built royal castle built from the 1230s with an eventful history including being besieged by Edward Bruce (Robert's brother) in 1316. However, it was abandoned in the 17th century.
Later there was migration across from Scotland, primarily from the platation of Scottish protestants in the agriculturally rich province of Ulster. Ulster-Scots, a derivation of the lowland Scots language4, is still spoken in areas of Down, most especially down the Ards Peninsula where many street signs are bi-lingual.
There is a tree trunk in the grounds of Bangor Castle which was a mustering point for men before the march south to the Boyne in 1690 to fight for William of Orange against James II.
Saintfield is probably most famous for the battle that took place there in June 1798, between the United Irishmen and the York Fencibles and local yeomanry during the Irish rebellion.
Craigivad is the home of the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum. Part shows the history of Ulster transport from animal drawn, through shipbuilding and railways, to aeronautics. The other has transported houses and places of work and worship from both urban and rural settings from a mixture of periods to show how Ulster men and women have lived.
Principal Towns
Belfast the capital of Northern Ireland really lies across the boundary of Counties Down and Antrim and merits an entry of its own. However, here are the principal towns wholly within County Down in order of population size.
Bangor5 is the largest town wholly within County Down. This seaside town on the south shore of Belfast Lough had 52,437 inhabitents in the 1991 census. It sits at the other end from Belfast of the busiest non-dual carriaged four-lane road in Northern Ireland. This road plus the railway carry a large number of commuters to Belfast daily. It is the seat of North Down Council and is the home town of both the Liberal Democrat's Northern Ireland spokesperson Lembit Öpik and former Ulster Unionist Party leader David Trimble.
Only about 11 kilometres (7 miles) away, from centre to centre, is Newtownards the second biggest town in Down. Newtownards sits at the northern end of Strangford Lough and the skyline is dominated by Scrabo Tower which was built as a memorial to the 3rd Marquis of Londonderry. The remains of Movilla Abbey, an Augustine monastrry, lie on the hills to the north of the town.
On the outskirts of Belfast is Dundonald only about 8 km (5 miles) from Belfast city centre. The name means 'Fort of Domnall', and probably referred to a rath6 built on the Moat Hill which can still be seen near the centre of the town today, behind St Elizabeth's Church. Dundonald's motte is one of the largest in Ireland and was enlarged by Norman fort and castle builder John de Courcy towards the end of the 12th Century.
Newry is the next largest centre of population, and with Lisburn in County Antrim, became one of Northern Ireland's new cities to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's Golden Jubilee in 2002. It is one of the most southern parts of Down and straddles the main Belfast-Dublin road and railway just north of the border.
Next in size is Banbridge which as the name suggests is a bridging point over the River Bann. It grew up as a milling town utilising its greatest asset the river itself.
The county town is Downpatrick7 which is overlooked by the mound of Down Cathedral whose graveyard contains the tomb of St Patrick; St Columba and St Bridget are also buried in the grounds. It is fairly central to the entire county and grew up as a market town and also houses the county's criminal court.
Other major towns include Holywood just to the east of Belfast, Comber just south of Newtownards and Newcastle which nestles on the shore at the foot of Slieve Donard.
Royal Patronage
Prince Andrew, Queen Elizabeth's second son was created Baron Killyleagh at the time of his marriage in 1986. Killyleagh8 lies on the shores of Strangford Lough.
James II established the Down Royal Corporation of Horsebreeders in 1685 and the first Down Royal racecourse was established near Downpatrick. It moved to its current site at the Maze near Lisburn in the early 1700s. William III on his way to the Battle of Boyne was informed that the Royal course was not subsidised. So he issued a prize of £100 annually, the King's Plate, to be raced for. George II issued a similar amount for a Royal Plate in 1750.
The Royal County Down Golf Course is a magnificent and testing links course which lies on the shore of Dundrum Bay. It has two courses the Championship which was designed in 1889 by Tom Morris; and the Annesley. Tom Watson has said of the course, 'It is a tremendous test of golf and the outward half especially is as fine a nine holes as I have ever played.'
County Down is the only county in Ireland to boast two Royal Golf Course, the other being Royal Belfast at Craigivad, Holywood. The present course was designed by Harry Colt in 1925 and is one of the finest parkland courses in Ireland. The Royal Patronage was first bestowed by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, in 1885. Prince Andrew, the Duke of York is the current Royal Patron.
Bangor's former promenade Queen's Parade which now fronts the marina was named in honour of the visit of Queen Victoria.
Hillsborough Castle the monarch's official residence in Northern Ireland is also situated in County Down, although the day to day occupant is the Secretary of State for Northern Ireland. It is not a true castle but an 18th Century Georgian Mansion.
Famous People from Co Down.
David Trimble former leader of the Ulster Unionists and Nobel Prize winner comes from Bangor, as do Lembit Öpik, the Liberal Democrats' Northern Irish spokesperson and Zöe Salmon9Blue Peter presenter.
Eddie Irvine the Racing Driver comes from the village of Conlig just to the south of Bangor. Also Viscount William James Pirrie who replaced Edward Harland as Chairman of Harland and Wolff was raised in Conlig. But for illness he would have been on the Titanic's maiden voyage.
Captain Crozier who attempted in vain to lead Sir John Franklin's doomed crews on Erebus and Terror to safety following the ill-fated mission to discover the North West Passage was born in Banbridge.
Patrick Bronte the father of novelists, Charlotte, Emily and Anne was born at Emdale between Banbridge and Rathriland. Seamus O'Neill the writer was born in Castlewellen in 1910.
Pat Jennings Northern Ireland's most capped international footballer was born in Newry. He made his international debut as goalkeeper on the same day as George Best.
SAS hero Robert Blair 'Paddy' Mayne was born in Newtownards.
Harry Ferguson one of the pioneers of the tractor, who patented the tractor and plough as one unit, was born in Dromore.
Places of Interest
There are three National Trust properties in Down:
Mount Stewart sits on the east shore of Strangford Lough, near Greyabbey. The 18th Century Mansion is set in 98 acres of gardens. It is the home to the family of the Marquess of Londonderry. The bedrooms in the house reflect the family's travels and are named after European cities.
The gardens contains a large collection of rare and unusual plants as well as many stunning vistas. The sunken garden is a glow of yellow and orange when the Azaleas are in bloom. Also in late spring scarlet blooms show the Red Hand of Ulster in the Shamrock garden. Later in the year the Italian Garden's symmetrical beds comes alive with its roses and herbaceous planting.
Rowallane Gardens near Saintfield has many exotic species much of it making the most of the natural landscaping. There is an impressive rock garden with primulas, alpines and heathers. The walled garden has mixed borders and houses the Royal Horticultural Society's National Collection of Penstemons. There are also majestic azaleas and rhododendrons as well as some areas given over to wildflower meadows.
Castle Ward near Strangford, like Mount Stewart, is an 18th Century Mansion built in 1760. It has one Classical and one Gothic facade because Bernard Ward10, 1st Viscount Bangor, and wife Lady Anne Bligh, daughter of the 1st Earl of Darnley, could not agree on a style for their new home. Set in 700 acres it offers spendid views over Strangford Lough.
The current Castle is actually the third property on the site; the first a fortified tower house was built soon after the Ward family arrived in area around 1570. The Tower House can still be seen in the grounds today. In 1710 Bernard's father Judge Michael Ward replaced this with a new mansion to the North West. The house no longer stands but the formal landscaping most notably the Temple Water show the location.
Other Places of Interest:
- The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, Craigivad
- Down Cathedral, Downpatrick
- Down County Museum, Downpatrick (just down the hill from the cathedral)
- Saul, first Church of St Patrick, near Downpatrick
- The Mountains of Mourne, South Down
- Castle Espie Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre, Strangford Lough, South of Comber
- Exploris and Aquarium, Portaferry
- North Down Heritage Centre, Bangor Castle, Bangor
1 The name Strangford is Norse and means 'strong inlet'. It is so called because of the strength of the tidal current caused by the narrow entrance to the lough.
2 An area in the lee of Mountains which has less rain an cloud cover.
3 Mapa Mundi is Latin for map of the world. The earliest such map centres on Jerusalem, shows the centres of Chritianity across Europe, the silk road to China and has no America or Australia.
4 Scots and Ulster-Scots are nither directly related to either Gaelic or English, although there is obviously some crossover.
5 Beannchar in Irish.
6 A rath is a circular ring mound which is the remains of an Iron Age fortification.
7 Dún Phádraig in Irish.
8 Cill Ó Laoch in Irish.
9 1999's Miss Northern Ireland who beat 2005 Big Brother Contestant Orlaith McAllister into second.
10 One of the descendents of this family is Lalla Ward, who played Romana II one of Tom Baker's Doctor Who assistants.