Paper is an medium everyone uses on a daily basis for writing and drawing, in books and magazines and even as insulation in some modern housing. And since Donkin developed the first commercial paper machine in 1804 for the Fourdrinier brothers, mechanised production took over. But in many shops they've started selling textured papers, papers with leaves and other textural qualities, which cost a lot more than regular paper.

You can make similar paper, with house hold objects, with the same effect for the price of a few sheets or regular paper and you can personalise the paper to your own specific recipe.

You will need:

• Waste Paper - Coloured, white, most paper types can be used, but high quality papers such as computer print-out paper, writing paper or brown wrapping paper are most effective. Try to avoid newspaper though, as the ink content is very high and creates a very unattractive grey paper and is also prone to disintegration.
• Blender
• Measuring Jug
• Frame
• Rectangular Washing Up Basin
• Wooden Spoon
• Jay Cloths, any kind of all-purpose cleaning cloth or Blotting Paper
• Washing Up Sponge
• A Flat Surface
• Heavy Books

Making The Frame

The Frame (or Deckle and Mould) is the most important element of the paper making process and will be the most costly piece of equipement in the paper making process, these can be easily bought in craft shops or made at Home.

You'll need:

• 8 lengths of 3/4" thick wood
• Screws
• Waterproof Glue
• Mesh (such as net curtains or aluminium mesh for car repair¹)
• Staples

Method:

1. Cut eight lengths of wood to the size you want your paper (you can buy these pre-cut to save time and ensure all the lengths are the same). The dimensions of the deckle and Mould will determine the size of the paper you make. So for an A4 sheet you'd cut four pieces of timber measuring 21cm and another four approximately 30cm.
2. Join the corners together with waterproof glue.
3. Secure joints with screws to prevent them falling apart whilst the glue dries.
4. Take one of the frames and choose one face to be the back and one to be the front. Along the back of one of the side members, use the staples to fix the mesh. Wrap it around the outside edge of the frame, across the front of the frame, around the outside of the opposite edge, pull it tight and staple it to the back of the opposite side member. Do the same at the top and bottom of the frame, carefully folding the corners, so that the front face of the frame is covered with a taut piece of mesh something like a drumhead.
5. Leave to dry.

Once you've gone to the expense of either making or buying a deckle and mould you won't have to do it again unless you're wanting larger sheets of paper.

Method for Making Paper

1. Tear your chosen paper into postage-stamp-sized pieces, remembering to remove all impurities, such as staples, glued edges, paper clips, sticky tape etc.
2. Soak paper in a little water to soften and make it easier to create the pulp.
3. Fill the blender with enough clean water for the quantity of paper you're using.² Pulse with frequent pauses to avoid the motor overheating and avoid making a smooth pulp as this means the paper could be weak and a slightly chunky pulp will give interesting textures.
4. Switch off leaving blender and pulp to one side.
5. Fill the basin with clean water, approximately four parts water to one part pulp.
6. Pour pulp into the washing up basin making sure that the basin has one of the widest sides closest to you.
7. Stir pulp with the wooden spoon in order to distribute the particles evenly through the water before pulling your first sheet of paper.
8. Hold the mould and deckle firmly together, with the mould mesh side up and the deckle on top creating a frame. The depression is where your sheet will be created.
9. Lower the frame into the near side of the basin and gently push it away from you, gradually submerging the until it lies flat under the surface of the water. You may want to move it back and forwards to ensure you get enough pulp on the mesh.
10. Whilst holding the mould flat and level, carefully lift it from the basin, but before all the water drains away gently rock it backwards and forwards, which will the fibres to mesh together, ensuring that the paper will be strong.
11. Rest the mould and deckle on the basin for about 20 to 30 seconds to allow some of the water to drain away.
12. Place a damp cloth on a flat hard surface.
13. Remove the deckle/top frame, this will leave the paper on the mesh and make it easily detachable.
14. Hold the mould almost vertically to one side of the cloth and in one smooth movement roll the mould down so that the pulp is pressed to the cloth.
15. Using the sponge press quite hard on the back of the mesh to transfer the pulp to the cloth. You should be able to see it coming away from the mesh and the reverse the rolling action to lift off the empty mould.
16. At this point you can place on dried flowers, leaves, glitter, silk threads or other ingredients, as the pulp is still wet the fibres should stick to individualise your paper.
17. Gently press another cloth on the paper to help with the drying process and the weight down your paper with heavy books so that it dries flat. Leave for 30 minutes.
18. Remove books and the top cloth and leave to dry in a warm dry place such as the top of a boiler or in the airing cupboard.

Once dry carefully peel each sheet from the cloth and you have made your own homemade paper.

You can also make bowls from the pulp by sieving the pulp to drain excess water and press to a cling filmed bowl or you can use household objects to inprint patterns into your paper for other interesting effects.

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¹ Most car repair shops carry this type of mesh.
² The pulp shouldn't be too thick or too watery so add the water by eye and alter where necessary, the consistency of thick wallpaper paste or mashed banana.