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Birmingham
I've always wanted to have a go at writing a city guide, and where better than my home city of the past 10 years or so, Birmingham. This is not the definitive list of things to do, but it is a list of things I would recommend, if you know of better places, then please let me know. I intend this guide to be updated (stop laughing at the back). I have tried to tailor this guide to things that Collective readers would like to do. I've also tried so that "chain" shops, bars and restaurants, that you can probably find in your home city are not mentioned, only Birmingham specific stuff. This information is (probably) correct as of March 2004, so if you're reading this in 2007, and nowhere is open then don't blame me. I've not included details like addresses and phone numbers, just a brief description of where things are if they're hard to find (go look in the Yellow Pages!). Getting Around Birmingham is a maze, you will need a map to find anything, but basically, the city centre is split into a shopping area (around New Street & the New Bullring), and 2 entertainment areas, Broad Street, which is on the other side of the amusingly named Paradise Circus, at the top end of New Street, and the Arcadian, which is at the back of New Street Station, exit by the taxi rank, keep going towards the Bullring, and turn right instead of entering it. Head down the hill, and turn left at Hurst Street. Attractions. OK, I'll admit it, there are not many tourist attractions in Birmingham. The best is Cadburyworld, which is especially good if you have kids, but probably not worth visiting if you don't. Either get the train to Bourneville station, or get the bus through to Bourneville (I'd recommend the bus as you get to see some of the buildings the Cadbury brothers erected in Bourneville). It's expensive, but you get loads of chocolate. Skip the animatronic show by the adventure playground - it's pants. Other Attractions? Err, have you seen the big escalator at the back of the Pallisades? Luckily there are other things to do... Arts I'd recommend anyone in Birmingham makes a visit to the Ikon Gallery in Brindley Place. Contemporary art in a great setting, and completely free. Exhibitions here have included Turner prize nominees like Anya Gallaccio and local artists like Hayley Newman. The gallery also includes the best shop in Birmingham for books and magazines on contemporary art, and a highly rated Spanish cafe. The Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery in Victoria square has a mixture of historical art, including pieces from one of Birmingham's more famous sons, Edward Burne-Jones, as well as trinkets from around the world. Watch out for the fantastic perspective warping piece at the top of the stairs by the entrance. The BMAG contains 3 sections, the main gallery, with the permanent collection and a couple of exhibition halls for temporary stuff. The Waterhall, around the corner from the main entrance, for modern art, and the Gas Hall for major exhibitions (like the recent Turner exhibition). The museum shop is excellent for art postcards and books. The Halycon in the ICC, next door to Symphony Hall always has a good mixture of stuff. Last time I went it featured Dali, Damien Hurst, and one of Rolf Harris's pictures from Cartoon Time. The St Paul's Gallery, between St Paul’s square and the Jewellery quarter is a strange place, with a couple of platforms where you can look down on the entire gallery. There are some interesting exhibitions here, but it's a bit remote and hard to find. Cinemas. The Electric cinema is now closed, so your choices in the centre are the multiplexes of the Odeon on New Street, at the Bullring end (famous for the number of people caught having sex in it), or the UGC at 5 Ways roundabout at the top end of Broad Street. There's a new(ish) AMC in Broadway Plaza at the top end of Broad Street as well, but I haven't tried it yet Shops The new Bullring centre is now open, and contains all your favourite chains, but you may also want : Records. The sad closure of Plastic Factory (recipients of much of my student loan), mean that the best places are now Swordfish on Temple Street or Tempest, just off Corporation Street, around the back of Rackhams for indie (although Tempest has more metal, and also floors with hip-hop and dance). For dance music, try Massive records on Penfold Street (very cool, but I think it's a little sterile), or the excellent Dance Music Finder, which is better for older and rare stuff, which is at the top of Digbeth High Street, just opposite the big shiny Selfridges building (the one that looks like a boob-tube covered in hubcaps). They also have a catalogue on their web site. Books. There's no independent booksellers in the centre, but it's worth checking out the huge palatial Waterstones where New Street meets Corporation Street. It's the most grandiose bookshop I've ever been in - check out the top floor gallery for a view of everything. For comics, try Nostalgia on Smallbrook Queensway. Clothes. It's hard to work out what clothes people on a website would like, but I'd bet that most Collective readers would like Cult Clothing on Temple Street. The best other clothes shops are centred around the top end of Navigation Street, around the back of the huge Waterstones (see above). Finally, try the St Martins market, exit the Bullring at the bottom, by the church, and it's right in front of you. You want cheap clothes? Then it's great. You want clothes where the stitching stays together, and the colour won't run, erm, maybe not... It's good for 2nd hand stuff though. Jewellery. This is a Birmingham speciality, head out to the Jewellery Quarter for a huge amount of jewellery shops selling stuff at much cheaper prices than you'd see on the high street. There are a number of workshops, so it's easy to get stuff custom made, or repaired. There's also a load of antique jewellery. To get there, take either the tram or the train from Snow Hill station in Cathedral square, or it's about 15 minutes walk from the cathedral. Head down Newhall Street, turn right on Charlotte Street at the Assay office, when you get to St Paul’s Square (the only greenery in the area), take the exit at the middle of the top edge of the square, and walk for another 5 minutes or so. The best shop is probably the shop in the Jewellery Quarter museum, where the students of the nearby school of jewellery sell their works. These are funkier and more individual than the rest of the shops. Wannabe referees can buy Acme Thunderer whistles here, they've been made in this part of Birmingham for over 100 years. As well as the standard jewellery shops, you may want to check out "Days To Remember" for wedding gifts & jewellery, and "Gentlemens Gifts" for stuff like silver hip flasks, and fancy cuff links. On anything you buy, watch for the anchor hallmark, showing the piece was made in Birmingham. Food. Head down to the produce, meat and fish markets behind St Martin's church in the Bullring for the best bargains - usually good quality as well. For fancier fare, try the basement of the Rackhams department store (it's now called "House of Fraser", but people in Birmingham still call it Rackhams), for the "World Of Food", watch for the occasional tastings on Sunday. Finally, head out on the Hagley road and try Babushkas for Russian groceries and food. Bars. I'll split this into areas : Central Shopping Area. Red : My absolute favourite bar in Birmingham is Red on Temple Street, a small door with a flag above it next to the San Carlo restaurant leads you downstairs into one of Birmingham's smallest bars, which strangely only has waitress service (they literally pass you the drinks from the barman). Cool music, and large sofas make this a winner. Drinks are expensive though. Bacchus : Underneath the Burlington hotel (entrance at the bottom of the stairs in the Burlington arcade, at the bottom of New Street) you'll find this place. It's split into a number of rooms, and the mix of decor makes it feel a bit like you're in the Crystal Maze. Sunflower lounge. Right outside New Street station, head past the taxis towards the Bullring, and then turn right instead of going across the road and into the Bullring itself. It has a notorious music quiz every Monday night, and occasional live bands. Broad Street If you're only in Birmingham for one night, then you'll probably want to see Broad Street, a whole street of bars, mostly chains, so you'll already know what you're getting (not always a bad thing). Notable exceptions are : Zinc : behind the large Lloyds opposite the Symphony Hall, great atmosphere, superb cocktails, excellent food, and good drinks offers, Zinc is probably the best on Broad Street. The drinks get expensive after the offers finish though (around 7:30). Living Room : above the large Lloyds (look for the small entrance next door), is this sister bar to the Manchester Living Room. Huge variety of drink, and several cocktails, it gets very busy on Friday and Saturday nights, when the piano starts. A favoured haunt of the Aston Villa squad. Sports Cafe : a standard sports bar, but notable for the huge pool room in the basement. If you want pool, even on a Saturday night, then there'll probably be a table free here. Grosvenor Casino : What? You may scoff, but this is a useful hidey hole on Broad street if the pace is getting to much for you, and you want a place where you are guaranteed a seat. Note also that the drinks are cheaper than the surrounding bars, and the bar snacks are a hell of a lot better (and cheaper) than most of it's neighbours. Remember that standard casino rules apply, and you can't enter until you've been a member for 24 hours, and also that drinking 10 pints and then playing blackjack is expensive. Arcadian The Arcadian used to be more relaxed than Broad Street, and the music has always been much better (clubs where they won't play the Grease Megamix!) but new restrictive door policies have meant that it's a bit "too" trendy for my liking. However, if you are there, then Poppy Red is an excellent choice. The Green Room and 52 Degrees North are also worth trying. The Mailbox It was touch and go when the Mailbox first opened as to whether it would be a success, but now the BBC have opened their offices there, the bar scene has taken off... You will often find me at Bar Epernay, a place that feels elegant, but without pretension. It also has a lounge piano, and a big fire in the centre of the room. It's up there with Red & Zinc in my eyes as one of the best bars in the city. Upstairs, Santa Fe is a good place for a quick drink - try the frozen strawberry Margheritas. It's primarily a restaurant, but has a small bar area. Some people rave about the food here, but I find it can be a bit variable - hence it being mentioned here instead of under restaurants. I'll also mention Malmaison; now I'm under the impression that a big square featureless room with bad service and overpriced drinks does not a good bar make, but it's the bar to be seen in at the moment, and it is frequented by the guys from Million Pound Property Experiment. It's at the front of the Mailbox, the entrance is halfway up the stairs. St Paul's Square. A good alternative to the city centre is St Paul’s, try the uber-expensive Jam House for live music (mostly soul), or the just as expensive, but extremely plush Tarnished Halo (around the corner on Ludgate Hill) for drinks. Note that Tarnished Halo has one of those one way mirror things, so that girls in the loo can spy on people in the bar. Also feel free to try the St Paul's cafe bar, the Ropewalk & the Actress and the Bishop. Clubs. Best night out in Birmingham? I'd say the Glee club in the Arcadian - 4 comedians gives great value (and lots of laughs for your money), big names play here as well, so watch out for the special events. When the comedians have finished in the main room, they go into the studio theatre at the back to give a later show (starts about 10:30) which has a much better atmosphere (and is cheaper). They also have live music some nights (of the singer songwriter variety - Laura Veirs, Lloyd Cole, Carleen Anderson, and the Be Good Tanyas have all played here - or are about to). The Custard Factory / Medicine Bar. A close second. If Collective was a bar, it'd be the medicine bar. The custard factory contains a load of funky shops (retro furniture, records, etc) and art exhibitions in the daytime, and also the medicine bar, where you'll often find strange electronica at night. It's at the top of Digbeth High Street, about 10 minutes walk from the Selfridges building. Other than that, I don't really "do" clubs much, so if you have any suggestions, please let me know. For live music, try the big square box that's the Academy (older residents will know it as the den of iniquity that was the Hummingbird). I also have a soft spot for Snobs on Paradise Circus. Indie music in one room, alternative 60s stuff in the other. I first went almost 10 years ago, and it hasn't changed since. It's been there forever, but I hear it may be closing soon - go see it before Birmingham loses one of it's proudest institutions. Cafes. You'll often find me at the many Starbucks or Coffee Republics around town, but there are some more individual places. Hudsons, just off Victoria Square, look for the Starbucks next to the Council House, it's across the road from here. An old fashioned tea room / expensive deli, while I didn’t try the "coffee with rainwater", it's your best bet for tea in the centre. Good sandwiches too. The only downside being that it's shut on Sundays. The Art Lounge, in the Mailbox, enjoy your coffee while surrounded by loads of great art. There's always something new to see. St Martin's Arts Cafe. This is a bit of locals secret, it's actually inside St Martin's church in the centre of the Bullring shopping centre. As well as being one of the few places you can get alcohol in the Bullring, it's also cheaper than the surrounding legion of Starbucks. Note that the fact it's hidden away doesn't stop it becoming hugely busy on Saturday lunchtime. Enter the church and then take a sharp right turn and head into the community centre. Restaurants For Indian food hit the Balti triangle in Sparkbrook (too many restaurants to list here, and they often change names or ownership - pick up a leaflet in the city, or just head on out there and have a look round), or try Peppers at the end of Broad Street or Vojon in Fletchers Walk (in the subway with the entrance outside the town hall - the building based on the Parthenon). For Chinese, head to Chinatown at the Arcadian, and if there's a group of you, hit the banquet menu at Chung Ying Garden. For European, the best Italian, and the rudest waiters, are at the San Carlo on Temple Street, for great value French, try Chez Jules just off New Street, near the Pizza Hut, and for Spanish, try Bar Estillo in the Mailbox or Chez Amis, also in Fletchers Walk. For contemporary food, go to Bank - possibly the best restaurant in the city, don't forget to try the cocktails. If you're too lazy to go to a restaurant than Manzils (the sometime haunt of UB40 on Digbeth High Street) delivers good values baltis to your door. Other guides If you're going to spend any time in Birmingham, I'd recommend the Itchy Guide for a more comprehensive list of bars and clubs. For events, pick up a free What's On from the ticket shop at the base of the Rotunda (the large circular tower by the bullring centre), or from the central library in Chamberlain Square. Or pick up the Birmingham edition Metro from New Street station in the morning. Events; Birmingham throughout the year : March, both the Film and TV festival (now called the Birmingham Screen festival), and the Songwriters festival take place in March every year. June, the Birmingham jazz festival - a large variety of jazz, there's usually something of interest for everyone (I saw Big Bad Voodoo Daddy a couple of years ago playing this). August, City Centre Discovery Day - you have to visit all of Birmingham's sites in a day, getting a stamp at each one, and you can then enter a competition. It's actually good fun, and a lot harder than it sounds, it will take you all day, so don't turn up at lunchtime, and expect to be able to get all of the stamps. Your chances of getting a prize are pretty good if you do manage it. Last year, my group had six people enter & we won 2 prizes! It's on August 15th in 2004. September, Artsfest, the city centre is closed off, and there's lots of arts-y stuff happening, mainly workshops for kids. It's on September 11th - 12th in 2004. Note that last year Broad Street was shut for this, so don't plan on driving in to Birmingham when this is on. December, Christmas market - where you can buy German food, and touristy tat. The best bit is the huge Bratwurst grill that's usually in Victoria square. Random useful facts. A few "insiders guide" nuggets. Buses in Birmingham do not give change, normally this isn't too much of a problem as tickets are £1 off peak, but if you're going at peak time, you'll need a pocketful of silver. You may hear mention of "Mr Egg", this is a legendary Birmingham fast food place where you used to be able to "Eat like a king for £1" (it's now £1.50). I recommend avoiding this place unless you like sharing your dining experience with Birmingham's more aggressive and twitchy residents. If you are driving around the dual carriageways circling the city centre, and you don't know where you are, then the best piece of advice is to stay out of the tunnels, as these can take you to the other side of the city and completely disorientate you. Finally, if you want to fit in, pepper your conversation with the phrase "Birmingham has more miles of canal than Venice", and also note that you can win any argument about Birmingham with the phrase "After all, Shakespeare was a Brummie". Weblinks By far the best site on Birmingham is this : http://www.joyfeed.com/euphoria/euphoria.html... a guide to some of the more "interesting" places and artwork in the city. Unfortunately, most of the places pictured are now gone - victim of the modernisation. Also look out for the "confidential vegetable project" on this site Other Sites : Birmingham Ghost and Graveyard walks : http://www.birminghamwalks.co.uk/... Join the Peoples Democratic Republic of Birmingham : http://www.peoplesdemocraticrepublicofbirmingham.c...
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