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Devon's Surfing Beaches

by Simon Alexander
Surf's up and everybody's going board crazy as Devon's long relationship with surfing continues to go from strength to strength. Simon Alexander reports on some of the best surfing beaches in the county.


Surf Facts

There are currently 250,000 surfers in the UK.

The biggest surf normally occurs on a pushing tide, especially on the Bristol Channel coast.

Croyde Bay in North Devon and Fistral Beach in Cornwall are two of the most popular surfing beaches in Britain.

The first ever degree in surfing was offered by the University of Plymouth.

The record for the most number of surfers on a board was broken in 1989 at Fistral Beach, Newquay. Twelve surfers rode a 37ft longboard shaped by Tim Mellors.

Not since the early 80s, when Devon boasted its own English and British champions, has the sport attracted such large numbers eager to ride the waves which pound the county's beaches.

With a coastline as diverse as its landscape, the county has waves to suit all abilities.

North Coast

Croyde Bay, on the north coast, is one of the main draws - courtesy of its hollow, powerful low tide waves which on their day produce beachbreak waves as good as anywhere in the world. Winds from an easterly direction are offshore.

Croyde
Catching waves at Croyde

Situated just a few miles from Barnstaple, and with a rich surfing history stretching back over forty years, Croyde has spawned some of the sports top competitors.

Former English and British champion Richard Carter and Ralph Freeman are just two surfers who have contributed to Croyde's reputation in the British and European competition arena Scott Rannochan heads the new crew taking the sport to new heights.

With North Devon bearing the brunt of atlantic swells, the area boasts several other top surfing locations.

Travel north from Croyde and you are faced by the sweeping sands of Woolacombe Bay. Nestled in its southern corner is Puttsborough.

It comes into its own when the south westerlies blow high cliffs diverting all but the strongest of gales away from the breaking waves.

Putsborough
Putsborough waves can pack a punch

Despite not having the same power as Croyde, the waves can pack a punch when they pass the mid-tide sandbanks.

Woolacombe offers more quality beachbreak waves, which in the past have been ridden by the sports elite. The venue was once a popular venue for top national and professional contests.

The beach is more exposed to south westerly winds than Puttsborough but as the tide line bends around to Mortehoe, it can offer punchy peaks in most winds except from the northerly quandrant.

Further up the Bristol Channel are wavefields aplenty, and when the big storm swells sweep across the north coast Lynmouth comes into play. One of Devon's premiere pointbreaks, the pebble and rock bottom ensures perfect breaking waves and some of the longest rides in the county.

Saunton Sands
Sunset at Saunton Sands

Just south of Croyde, Saunton Sands offers much slower breaking waves courtesy of its gently sloping beach. It is an ideal location for beginners.

In recent years Saunton has also been a popular destination for longboarders, who skillfully ride the waves from the two to 10ft range.

Across the Torridge Estuary, lies Westward Ho! and spots beyond. Popular with surfers from Bideford, the waves break almost identically to Saunton, although a series of rock outcrops offers a more challenging wave when conditions allow. Again winds from an easterly direction are offshore.

South Coast

Devon's south coast, which stretches from Lyme Bay in the east to Plymouth Sound in the west also boasts plenty of surfing locations, but swell direction plays a major part in the quality of waves which break on the shore.

The surf is more consistent during the winter, when powerful North Atlantic swells manage to push past the Lands End/Brittanny gap causing waves to break along the whole coastline.

Bantham
Bantham from Bigbury

Bantham, in the South Hams, has attracted surfers from Plymouth and further afield for over thirty years.

With Burgh Island as a backdrop, it is a scenic surfing location. Waves break through all stages of the tide, although rip currents can be strong at times. Other popular surfing beaches nearby include Challaborough and Wembury.

In Torbay, surfing has grown steadily over the years, with Paignton Pier and Torquay providing quality surf when conditions are right. Waves are also ridden at Dawlish Warren, Sidmouth and along the East Devon coast to Lyme Regis.

With such a diversity of surfing locations around Devon, it really is a case of where there's a will, there's a wave!

last updated: 24/03/06
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