Costume Designer
The Costume Designer heads the costume and wardrobe team and is responsible for organising and providing everything that is worn by principal and supporting artists on a production. Working closely with the Director, their role is to help the performer's character development by careful consideration of how they are dressed and imaged on screen.
The Costume Designer requires a combination of creative flair, design experience, a broad knowledge base of costume and social culture as well as technical understanding of many production processes. In order for the costume process to be delivered efficiently the Designer needs to communicate design ideas and accurate information to a wide variety of people. Working in collaboration with the production team they need to ensure that all costume requirements can be met within the production schedule and budget.
The costume design process starts with a detailed analysis of the script to determine the visual style, period and social culture in which the production takes place. The script breakdown will also clarify the scope of the project and outline seasons, locations and number of cast and costumes required. Depending upon the production a variety of different design processes and costume sources may be used to collate all required costume and accessories. Detailed research may be needed to accurately portray the look of a period or social group. In some instances a greater quantity of newly created costumes may need to be designed and made from scratch, whilst in other circumstances costumes are put together from hired or purchased sources. The costume remit also includes providing rehearsal clothes, weather cover, thermal underwear, stunt appliances and any duplicate costumes needed for repeat action or continuity.
The Costume Designer is responsible for coordinating all aspects of costume and costume accessories and managing the costume team and budget. They will source from specialist costume hire suppliers and contract specialist support staff and crafts persons including: costume makers, milliners, embroiderers, fabric suppliers, dyers, shirt makers, tailors, boot makers, etc. Tasks may include research, buying fabrics, accessories, trims and ready-made costumes, undertaking costume fittings, organising costume alterations and supervising the making of new garments.
It is important for the Costume Designer to establish a close dialogue with the performers to ensure they feel comfortable and able to fully expand the characterisation of the role. More often than not the Costume Designer is the first member of the production team an actor meets following audition and thus becomes an unofficial ambassador for the production, needing to put the role in context and give reassurance and confidence.
Ideally all principal artists are fitted with costumes in advance of filming and often need numerous sessions over a period of time to complete the costume requirements. It is more usual for supporting artists or "extras" to be fitted on the filming day unless there are specific or complex costume needs.
To successfully coordinate all aspects of costume requirement, the Costume Designer will need to communicate and work closely with a diversity of people, often under pressure. They need good organisation skills to ensure that all elements of costume for both principal and supporting artists are on set, location or dress rehearsal at the required time and to be able to schedule and organise the costume team. The costume design process relies on an established close working partnership between costume hire companies and independent costume makers who together make an important contribution to the final design interpretation.
It is important to enjoy working as part of a team structure and to be able to coordinate intellectual, conceptual and practical processes. The costume designer needs to efficiently budget and schedule all costume and staff needs. Employment is on a freelance basis.
Role Profile
- Requires a variety of skills, from designing, making and adapting costumes, to budget control and team management
- Excellent communication and organisation skills
- Sound financial management skills associated with handling a large budget
- Creative flair and a thorough knowledge of period costume is essential
- Excellent interpersonal skills and the ability to put people at ease are required
The costume designer needs knowledge of
- Literature, styles of performance and dramatisation, history, social history, architectural styles and detailing, interior design, history of art and design
- Costume history and modern fashion
- Production processes
- Post production processes and techniques
- The working needs of technical departments such as camera and lighting
- Budgeting, scheduling and project management processes
- Specialist suppliers and retail sources
- Garment construction and fabrics
- Health and safety regulations
Career Path
The usual career route is an academic qualification equivalent to a BA (Hons) Art and Design in a specific or related field of study such as Costume Design, Fashion, Theatre Design or Performing Arts (production), followed by extensive practical experience and training in the industry as a Wardrobe Assistant or Costume Maker, for example.
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