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Thruster
didn't take up surfing until he was 19, but soon became hooked
and was determined to let neither a late start, nor a remarkable
dearth of natural talent stand in his way. Now aged 36 he
still sincerely believes it is only a matter of time before
he becomes world champion.
Also obsessed with snowboarding, at which he is marginally
more impressive - he can stand up. Thruster has been writing
surfing and extreme sports articles for 12 years. His next
journalistic challenge is to write a good one.
Home
Break: Gwithian
Surf Trips: Mexico, Costa Rica, Philippines, Fiji,
Indonesia, NZ, Hawaii, Australia, South Africa, Canaries,
Portugal, Spain, France, Ireland
Surfers' Ear Operations: 3
Would love to live in: Galicia
Board: 6'4" x 18 ¾ rounded pin (and a 9'1"
log when really desperate)
Standard: Easily one of the best in his Cul-de-Sac.
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Thruster
gives us his weekly update on the Cornish surf scene.
Peeing is a sign of greatness
Finally it has been confirmed that surfers are among the most dedicated
athletes in the world. Obviously we've suspected as much for years,
but it's only recently been brought to the attention of a global
audience.
Last Sunday, as I was sitting indoors, watching 4.5 billion fools
run around the streets of London on my TV screen, suddenly the leader
of the women's race, "Our Paula", peed her pants.
Since then, the incident has been viewed, quite rightly, as the
act of someone pushing the boundaries of human endurance; a sportsperson
prepared to stop at nothing to improve their performance. In short,
it's been seen as a sign of greatness.
Paula Radcliffe is an athletic phenomenon and deserves all the accolades
she receives BUT surfers have been pushing their own performances
to these extremes for decades. I'd go as far as to say there isn't
a single surfer reading this column that isn't pushing the envelope
just as hard as she has.
I'm not one to blow my own trumpet, but I can barely remember a
surf where I haven't weed in my suit. Sometimes twice.
Although surfers have always known this practice is ok, outsiders
have previously viewed it as the work of a festering scumbag. Now,
at long last, we need not hide.
From this day forward, as you walk out of the sea, you can casually
mention to a passer-by, "I had a little piddle out there,"
and they will applaud you until their hands bleed.
In a similar vein, the other day I laughed so hard at a friend's
wipe-out, I swallowed some water and was sick in my mouth. This
is further proof of my sporting dedication.
Thruster
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