Taking the new year train (2)
Time to report on the train journey I went on the other day. To recap, around two hundred million Chinese people have been going home for the Chinese New Year. It's the world's biggest annual migration of people.
My colleague, Dandan Chen, and I began our journey late at night at Beijing West Railway Station with tickets on carriage 10 of the L43 train to southern China (our tickets cost 115 rmb or $17 US.)
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[UPDATE, 15:55PM: Click here to see audio slide show of the migrant journey.]
It was a scramble to get on board. Not everyone made it onto the right train. Just before we left, the on board announcer broadcast a special call to one passenger.
"Your friend says you're on the wrong train. You need to get on the train on the opposite platform," the announcer said in an even voice. Everyone in the carriage laughed.
In the seconds before the train left, there was a bit of panic. Several passengers tried to jump onto the train - but were pushed off by a female steward. She was doing them a favour - it turns out that they were trying to get onto the wrong train. It was a common mistake at a station whose departure board advertised 151 trains.
At 12.41am - exactly on time - our train left with a judder. Some people had seats, or bunks. Others stood in the aisle. One family crouched in between carriages.
"Once we got onto the train, we spotted this little space," said Wang Yingdi, "So we rushed to occupy it. Last night I had to hold my daughter in the cold. This journey is a very painful experience. But if we don't go home, we'll miss our parents. After all, this is the only chance we get to reunite with our families."
Her eight-year-old daughter, Yi Liping, didn't seem to mind the discomfort too much, "I like the train because I can see the scenery," she said.
Many passengers on board train L43 were migrant workers going home for the first time in a year. In recent years, more than 200 million workers have left their homes in the countryside in search of work in cities - often as construction workers. But China's now been hit by the world's economic crisis. So, millions of these migrant workers have now lost their jobs.
"There's no work at home," said Yan Fumin, sitting in carriage three, "So I have to go out to find a job - wherever I can. But the competition is getting tougher - people are offering to work for low wages. I have three children at school. If I don't go out to work, where will I get the money to support them?"
"This last month I could only get a dozen days' work - much less than before," said Li Deyi, sitting opposite, "It is very bad. I can't get enough work. I can only bring home 1000 rmb this year ($145 US). I can barely have a good new year. I'm a farmer but the crop prices are very low. So we have to go out to get any work we can find."
At night most people on board tried to sleep (I was lucky enough to get a few hours sleep on a spare bunk - but woke up with frozen feet.)
In the morning, a restaurant car sold breakfast for 30 rmb ($4US). But most people brought their own supplies of nuts and instant noodles. The train was kept clean by stewards who swept the floors every hour or so. Many passengers spent their time playing poker or listening to music on their mobile phones. Some watched DVDs on a laptop computer. One woman dozed for hours on a luggage rack.
After 17 hours, my colleague and I got out at a station in the Hubei province. I was semi-grubby, with recently thawed feet. Would I do it again? In an instant.
PS - I can safely quash the urban legend that passengers on these trips have to wear astronaut-style diapers because of a lack of toilet facilities (a point of extreme fascination to people I spoke to when we first suggested doing this journey). I can state that train L43 had plenty of loos which were all kept very clean.
I’m 
© MMIX~RS~q~RS~~RS~z~RS~45~RS~)
Comments
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James, only writing something like this one about a real China, could you earn the people's respect there!
The duty of a reporter is telling the truth, not by imagination!
Good article this one. It will help the government and the society to build a China with better equal opportunity. It takes time, but it is one the right track.
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You were supposed to go to Henan, weren't you? How come you ended up in Hubei? Overslept? :)
Nice blog, keep up the good work.
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I thought you were going to Hunan? Did you get on the wrong train too? :-) Good reporting from real China.
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"There's no work at home," said Yan Fumin, sitting in carriage three, "So I have to go out to find a job - wherever I can. But the competition is getting tougher - people are offering to work for low wages. I have three children at school. If I don't go out to work, where will I get the money to support them?"
Hi James, can you expand on how this person had three children?
Glad you had an interesting experience on this train.
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Best blog so far! :D
I always take the hardseat option when I go back to China, it's the only way to meet ordinarily interesting people and experience China. Glad u did it!!
Very tiring and tough, and you probably wish you flew, but in the end, no regrets huh? :D
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This is real jounalism. This is the first blog you have ever bring a smile on my face.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
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I have fond memories of train journeys in China, although one during Spring Festival was a little tough. I learned to play the card game "big old 2", and enjoyed all kinds of stories from all kinds of people.
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Shame you couldn't get off in Zhengzhou. Maybe next time.
Lovely video. I envy your job.
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Thank you for taking the time to bring us a real report on the people of China. More reports of life in China with real people doing real things would be appreciated
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Nice work.
But I am a bit surprised that you didn't pick up the worst train. I have had much worse experience than this, although it was many years ago. Not sure if there are still any green trains. If there are any, they must be the worst.
Of cause the communist government is worried by the rise in unemployment. It would be worrying if they didn't.
You should also learn some reality from this journey that China is still a developing country and how great the challenges people are facing are.
Did you ask the people you met on the train what they want the most? Money, better life quality, democracy or freedom of speech? They are all good things, but if they cannot come together, you have to set a priority.
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oh you are so lucky ,the number of those who couldn't get a stand-ticket ,is quite a bit.i've been in one of those trains before.i coundn't even breath.
bye the way,the truth is,the railway stuff is selling the ticket to distributors ,so they can demand a higher price.
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oh.James Reynold ,i hope i can travel with you,so i can tell you my story
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endyjai: The one child policy does not affect people living in rural areas. Rural people are free to have as many children as they like.
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I've never had such an experience. But I heard stories from my teachers in collage, a lot of them are hilarious afterward. I think it's getting better, greatly improved. I'm lucky and practical; I always consider opportunities close to home first. It’s hard to stick to your hometown in this modern world. Some people may actually like it, to know more people and more places.
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I still remember when I was at university in early 1990s, i only went back home twice a year even it is not very far distance, because I was a poor student, and my family could not afford me to have more trips than that. The train was quite backward, dirty and the stewards were not friendly either.
Now I go back to China twice a year, and took trains sometime to visiting places. I am amazed by the advanced Chinese train system and good quality of trains. Imagining every year Chinese government needs to shift the number of people equivalent to the whole pupulation of Europe (200 million), you have to give them applause for this achievement.
There are so many people like me in China, coming from poor family, but through my hard work and helped by people around you, I have achieved a bit so far. Chinese government makes the country stable and people can realise their dreams by hard working and fair competition. You have to admit that it is not perfect yet, but it is definitely on the right track.
You must also have read the news: Chinese government is to build a health service to cover 90% of the population in three years. This will cover about 1 billiion population, who can say this government is at the wrong side of history. By the way, this 1 billion will sure cover Tibetens-in-China.
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thanks for giving us a true picture of chinese ppl's life, one of your best blogs :)
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This is your best blog entry yet. Stories like this is what journalism is about. Good work!
I want to take the train now too.
More trips like this will give everyone, including you James, a real understanding of Chinese life in China and what the government is there for.
China need to create jobs more or it will fail the CCP motto "Serve the People". All government around the world has that responsibility especially now. China has been doing this all along with great failures and great success.
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Some years back I too travelled by train in China during the Spring Festival. What an experience - first a hard sleeper (3 tier bunks in an open compartment) from Beijing to Chengdu (26 hours) not too bad, train was crowded people were friendly. Then a second train - Hard Seat - Chengdu to XiaChiang (12 hours) - not for the faint hearted, train was packed peple standing, seats designed for 3 occupied by 5 or 6. Regular police patrols on the train - seeing I was the only westerner on the train along with 3-4000 Chinese passengers they set up their control point at the end of my carriage - my Chinese wife said it was unusual but they were there to protect me.
Our return to Behing was a week later this time we had a soft sleeper - this was more comfortable - a closed compartment with a pair of 2-tier bunks - the journey time was 44 hours - the was limited food available on the train as it was just after the Spring Festival and many people were still on holiday!
My wife teased me about being 'her Panda' while we were travelling in China, and in the rural areas we went to I felt very much like one as whereever we went people sat and stared at me!!!!
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The one child policy is not that simple.
Firstly, if both parents are single child children, then they can have more than one child. This is increasinly the case as the firrst of the one child generation reach their mid 20's.
Secondly, those of official ethnic minorities can, and always could, have more than one child.
Thirdly, twins and other multiple births have always happened - both naturally and through the use of fertility drugs.
Finally, those with money (although clearly not this lady) can just pay the fines - or not if they are influential enough.
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Wow, nice blog. Wish I had a job like this! Good to see you reporting on the everyday life of the Chinese and hearing what they had to say.
Looking forward to more reports like this in future.
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Hooray!
Finally a blog entry that doesn't mention communism, human rights, democracy, Tibet, deals, security, communism, human rights...
It's great to be able to see YOUR experience of China.
Sadly, though, I doubt this hiatus will continue.
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James:
Excellent updated to the original Blog on "Taking the New Year Train II"...And, very informative information about the journey that you, and Dandan Chen (And the passengers on the L43 Train....
And, thanks for the Post Script...
~Dennis Junior~
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Kudos, James! Now this is a great piece of real-life reporting.
Wow, 17 hours, you said? This is equivalent of riding north to south here in Holland 4 times plus!
How I see why you looked half fainted afterwards, wondering if China was indeed at the wrong of the history... LOL. Or you might still remember that even voice "special call " from the announcer broadcast:
" Ja-me-s , rey-no-er-de-s (non-standard Mandarin transaltion), your friend says you're on the wrong train. You need to get on the train on the opposite platform."
"Dam..need to do it again. Towards Manchuria!"
ROFLMAO!
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The train ticket in the slide show showed Xinyang as your desintation but you actually got off in Hubei province? Surely, you owe the train company a fair few Yuan there based on the extra distance from Xinyang to - say Wuhan? Next time I'm in China I'll reimburse the train company on behalf of the BBC by refraining from paying my TV License for a few months (given the pound's rate of 8.5 Yuan now that may take a few months off my bill). Lol
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Aw, James, aren't you cute! You looked so outta place sitting on the train talking in your public school accent. Good stuff.
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I can vaguely remember that I vomitted nonstop on a new year train journy to see my grandparents 20 years ago. Now I can afford flying home but new year reunions are never as fun as before~
Anyone's gonna watch the CCTV New Year's Gala? I know everyone hates it, but I just can't resist watching it! XD
Wish you all a happy 'Niu' year!
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James.
You get a thumb up from me again. You did the hard work. Look after your self. Howcome you did not go to Henan? If you can find a person on the platform or somewhere and visit his/her home. Have more interections with ordinary Chinese pls.
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It's really a very old story in China. I had too much story when I was a university student for 4 years and worked out of my city for 2 years. Chinese government has to solve the problem ASAP, but so far it's still disappointed.
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@endyjai
Actually only government employees (this include government institutions of all kind, schools, hospitals....)have to stick to the one child policy. Self employed urban population, farmers still do whatever they want. Wait to see next figure. I think China may have 1.5 or 1.6 billion people now. It worries me.
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I have been on the train in China countless times and I think you have captured the commotion very well!
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China's train system is good but India's is much better. The reservations, the punctuality, the freedom to upgrade make it one of the best in the world.
manpet wrote:
Imagining every year Chinese government needs to shift the number of people equivalent to the whole pupulation of Europe (200 million), you have to give them applause for this achievement.
The European Union has 500 million people and it does not include 230 million people who live in Ukraine and the part of Russia that is west of the Ural mountains.
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ppl in some remote areas didnt follow gov's family planning policy.so actually having 3 kids is perfectly normal in suburban areas.they are not able to generate enough crops to feed the whole family.i think that's exactly why many families in these places are becoming poorer and poorer.
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I think 30rmb for a breakfast is very expensive ?!?!!
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Why don't you make a train journey in India? See if you are going to have a seat or not. Somehow, the west does not criticize India as much as they do to China. They often pick bone out of egg in dealing with China. My friend told me that to take a train in India is like a nightmare.
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Had some epic train journeys in China (Tibet-Chengdu, Chendgu-Shanghai, Beijing-Hong-Kong) etc
1) punctuality : amazing. wish british rail would learn...
2) ticket halls : absolute bedlam. pity the people without elbows...
3) Train quality : varied, but getting better.
4) Overcrowding : my god, on one of the trains there so many people standing in aisles getting to the loos were a fight, once at the loos there was a massive queue, and kids who could not wait just pissed in the corridors. i understood why nobody had their bags on the floor even though the luggage racks and every spare surface was heaving. unfortunately i had my 2 adys supply of nuts, pot noodles and fruit pissed all over. and to make matters worse people were sleeping in the wash basins, so i couldn't even wash it! memories...
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Thanks for the fascinating report.
Hope your thawed feet are warming up now.
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Haha, nice blog entry... train rides were much more chaotic when I was a baby, my mom said someone smashed the train's window trying to get on the train and she had to pass me around to other passengers to get me away from the glass shards!
Happy Chinese New Year!
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Dear No.13 flibblesan. I don't think that's true at all that country people can have as many children as they want. For the Han Chinese, they are bound by the one child policy, but rather it's actually ethnic minorities that can have as many children as they want.
I once met a person who had four children and most of their friends had at least two. What all of them had in common was they had the ability to pay the fine that accompanies breaking the one child law. As long as you can pay the fine you can have as many children as you like.
By the way James, wasn't it interesting how you got caned by many regarding your blog about fake 100 Yuan notes, somehow suggesting it was only a Chinese problem, which you weren't of course. But what was interesting was that not long after that Wen Jiabao was on television talking about the extent of the problem.
Great Blog!
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After reading this report, one must admit that China has really progressed. In the train, it is crowded, no doubt about it, however, the condition is so much better then the one I saw in India and Indonesia. Like it or not, one must admit that the Communists in China is doing a real good job in this area. James thanks for keep it real.
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I really enjoyed reading this and seeing the photos. It brings back so many memories (not necessarily good ones) of train journeys we made in China. Especially this time of year the trains are a nightmare, I'm glad you came off the train with a smile on your face. Though I imagine you won't want instant noodles for a while now!
Happy New Year :)
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Julianrocks: Sorry that you do not believe my message was true. You should speak to a real Chinese and find out about the single child policy. If you live outside of a big city, you are free to have many children. If you live in a city, then you are restricted to one child unless you bribe an official or pay a huge fine.
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This is a nice entry about the real life in China, although I'm sure the train James took was not the most chaotic one you could find during this busy time. For me there are two modern China: the one you can see from the Chang'an Street or the lounge of Shangri-La hotel, and the other one you will find in the crowded train during spring festival or any mid-sized town in these rural areas. Only reporting the first one from these big cities is certainly misleading for people outside of China to really know this country. It is also why I very much appreciated your efforts in this blog entry to get some real images of the other much-less-seen China.
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Dear flibblesan, unfortunately my Chinese friends that read what you wrote don't believe it either. And whilst we all live in the city many are originally from the country side.
I did a bit of research and found this type of info at http://www.geocities.com/geogsoc2000/chinaonechild2.htm
'Officials in the countryside, where most Chinese live, often allow couples to try for a second child, but only if their first is a daughter. Many rural families simply fail to register their daughters, instead paying a "fine" to keep them.'
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Nice job !
U show a real china. When I read ur article I smiled. It is much more interesting that those articles which always talk about human rights, Tibet issue, and communist. Some of them mislead the readers without reporting the true things.
Hope u get more fun in China.
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