After the 100 day storm, Obama's Disunited States
New Orleans was where the Bush presidency sank as he blithely flew by.
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It's also where, just over two years ago, I saw Barack Obama launch his own hopes amid the ruins. As he'd later put it, the bigger the troubles, the greater the scope for change...
Beset by the economic crisis, Obama has used the opportunity to be busy across the board. He's promised wholesale reforms in health care, education, energy and conservation. Polls show that, so far, most Americans are happy enough with the direction: After all, they voted for it.
But others - a sizeable wedge - remain unconvinced. Obamaism, whatever it may be, is still taking shape, but it's leaving some Americans very uneasy.
These are the people who've been attending the so called Tea Parties - they claim their inspiration from the Boston revolutionaries.
All over the country conservatives have turned out in their thousands to protest against taxes and what they see as Obama's creeping socialism.
And it's not just economic policy which concerns them. From the reversal of Republican policies on abortion and stem cells to talking to America's adversaries, they feel Obama's taking their USA to Hell.
We met a group who'd run a tea party on the north shore of Lake Pontchatrain, across from New Orleans. They freely admitted yes, they were fearful.
Kevin Elliot says he's never before been politically active: "It looks like they're taking a crisis and using it to enable that progressive agenda, in a Blitzkrieg fashion.
"It seems that every day there's something coming out that we disagree with on a visceral level."
They speak of freedom under threat, of having to apologise to their children for what they're about to lose.
Two things strike you: the Tea Party people are almost exclusively white. And they all say America hasn't had a conservative president since Ronald Reagan.
In fact Obama agrees Reagan changed America and has cited him, admiringly, as a predecessor who seized his moment.
Of course Obama's solutions are very different to Reagan's. He has spoken of the "silent storms of poverty and joblessness, inequality and injustice" which Hurricane Katrina exposed in New Orleans but which "for far too long have ravaged" parts of the nation.
Liberals in the Democratic Party believe they now have a mandate to help the victims of those storms, to roll back a generation of conservatism.
The new president's great selling point is his intellect. He may run bigger government but it will be smarter government. That's the boast.
He's also trying to tap into the American sense of community, to get the people to do their bit and lend their neighbours a hand.
Fifty years ago they came from the north to help build the civil rights movement in the southern states. Today they're arriving to help rebuild the city of New Orleans after the flood.
Zack Rosenberg is a Washington lawyer who came to New Orleans to lend a hand three years ago and never left. His St Bernard project can rebuild an entire house for $15,000 - a sixth of the normal contractor's cost.
The labour is provided by volunteers and the material is funded by small government grants and private donations. It's non-partisan, not for profit and, he believes, it could be replicated across the country.
Perhaps Obama sees this as a model for rebuilding America. But those at the Tea Parties would be sceptical. Where's the free enterprise, the American spirit of the individual? Where's the profit in what sounds to them like naive liberal idealism?
The President's appeal to altruism and self-sacrifice is met with suspicion in the gun stores which have seen sales rocket since November. There's now a national shortage of ammunition.
The increased trade - up 100% in the Louisiana store we visited - has been driven by Obama's promise to reimpose controls on assault rifles and by that general, wide ranging anxiety identified by the people at the Tea Parties.
Obama's political savvy has now led him quietly to shelve his planned gun legislation.
Therein lies a lesson in Obamaism, both for those who fear it and for others who've invested in him such hope.
With battles ahead on so many fronts, President Obama is apparently choosing to fight only those he thinks he can win.

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