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In Defence of Food by Michael Pollan

  • Newsnight
  • 29 Jan 08, 01:40 PM

food203x300.jpgIn the latest entry into the Newsnight bookclub, journalist Michael Pollan argues that our idea of what food is and what we should be eating has been completely distorted by the food industry and nutritionists. He believes that people are now so confused about their diet that they have no idea what real food actually is any more.

Watch the Newsnight debate here and read an extract and join in below.


Extract from In Defence of Food: The Myth of Nutrition and the Pleasures of Eating
Published by Allen Lane at £16.99

Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants. That, more or less, is the short answer to the supposedly incredibly complicated question of what we humans should eat in order to be maximally healthy.

Perhaps you're suspicious of an approach that can be summed up in just seven words - but that injunction to "eat food" is not quite as simple as it sounds.

It used to be that food was all you could eat, but today there are thousands of foodlike substances in our convenience stores and supermarkets. Brightly coloured packages boast of their low-fat, no-cholesterol, high-fibre credentials.

Ingredient panels for once-simple staples such as bread, mayonnaise or yoghurt have been swollen by lengthy lists of additives - what in a more honest age would have been called adulterants.

The result is not just confusion, but a dangerous belief that scientifically endorsed "nutrients" are inherently superior to fresh, unprocessed food.

No other animal has such difficulty deciding what it should eat. True, as omnivores the "What to eat?" question is somewhat more complicated for us than it is for, say, cows.

Yet for most of human history, we have navigated the question without expert advice. To guide us we had, instead, culture, which - at least when it comes to food - is really just a fancy word for your mother.

What to eat, how much of it to eat, what order in which to eat it, with what and when and with whom was a set of questions long settled and passed down from parents to children without a lot of controversy or fuss.

But over the past several decades, mum lost much of her authority over the dinner menu, ceding it to scientists and food marketers and, to a lesser extent, the government, with its ever-shifting dietary guidelines and food-labelling rules. Think about it: most of us no longer eat what our mothers ate as children or, for that matter, what our mothers fed us as children.

pollan_photo300.jpgMy own mother grew up in the 1930s and 1940s eating a lot of traditional Jewish-American fare, typical of families who had recently emigrated from Russia or eastern Europe: stuffed cabbage, offal, cheese blintzes, dumplings filled with potato or chicken liver, and vegetables that were often cooked in rendered chicken or duck fat.

I never ate any of that stuff as a kid, except when I visited my grandparents. My mother, an excellent and adventurous cook whose own menus were shaped by the cosmopolitan food trends of New York in the 1960s (her influences would have included the 1964 World's Fair, the food writers Julia Child and Craig Claiborne, Manhattan restaurant menus and, of course, the rising drumbeat of food marketing) served us a rotating menu that each week completed a culinary world tour: boeuf bourguignon or beef stroganoff on Monday; coq au vin or oven-fried chicken (in a Kellogg's Cornflakes crust) on Tuesday; meat loaf or Chinese pepper steak on Wednesday; spaghetti pomodoro with Italian sausages on Thursday; and on her weekend nights off, a Swanson's TV dinner or Chinese takeaway.

She cooked with Crisco or Wesson vegetable oil rather than chicken or duck fat and used margarine rather than butter because she had absorbed the nutritional orthodoxy of the time, which held that these more up-to-date fats were better for our health. (Oops!)

Nowadays I don't eat any of that stuff - and neither does my mother, who has moved on too. Her parents wouldn't recognise the foods we put on the table, except maybe the butter, which is back. Today in America, as in much of the western world, the culture of food is changing more than once a generation, which is historically unprecedented - and dizzying.

What is driving such relentless change? One force is a multibillion-dollar food-marketing machine that thrives on change for its own sake. Another is the constantly shifting ground of nutrition science that, depending on your point of view, is advancing the frontiers of our knowledge about diet and health or just changing its mind a lot because it knows much less than it cares to admit. Part of what drove my grandparents' food culture from the dinner table was official scientific opinion, which, beginning in the 1960s, decided that animal fat was a deadly substance.

The food manufacturers, meanwhile, stood to make very little money from my grandmother's cooking, because she was doing so much of it from scratch - up to and including rendering her own cooking fats. Amplifying the "latest science", they managed to sell her daughter the virtues of hydrogenated vegetable oils, the ones that we're now learning may be, well, deadly substances.

I write as an American and, because I know them best, I use many American examples, but the story I have to tell is no longer just an American story. The epidemic of chronic diseases - obesity, diabetes, heart disease and several types of cancer - that can be traced to the modern diet may be more advanced in the US, but today the American way of eating is spreading around the world. Rates of obesity in Europe are rapidly approaching those of the US, and increases in diabetes and cardiovascular disease are certain to follow.

Sooner or later, everything solid we've been told about the links between our diet and our health seems to get blown away in the gust of the latest study. Consider a few recent findings.

In 2006 came news that a low-fat diet, long believed to protect against cancer, may do no such thing - this from the massive, federally funded Women's Health Initiative, which has also failed to find a link between a low-fat diet and the risk of coronary heart disease. Indeed, the whole nutritional orthodoxy around dietary fat appears to be crumbling.

In 2005 we learned that dietary fibre might not, as we'd been confidently told for years, help prevent colorectal cancers and heart disease. And then, in the autumn of 2006, two prestigious studies on omega-3 fats came to strikingly different conclusions.

While the Institute of Medicine at the National Academy of Sciences found little conclusive evidence that eating fish would do your heart much good (and might hurt your brain, because so much fish is contaminated with mercury), a Harvard study brought the hopeful piece of news that simply by eating a couple of servings of fish each week (or by downing enough fish oil tablets) you could cut your risk of dying from a heart attack by more than a third.

Taking their cue from Harvard, food scientists are now rushing to micro-encapsulate fish and algae oil and blast it into such formerly terrestrial foods as bread, pasta, milk, yoghurt and cheese.

By now you're probably feeling some nostalgia for the simplicity and solidity of the first few words of this article.
The story of how the most basic questions about what to eat got so complicated reveals a great deal about the institutional imperatives of the food industry, nutrition science, and - ahem - journalism, three parties that have much to gain from widespread confusion about the most elemental question an omnivore confronts.

Humans deciding what to eat without professional guidance - something they have been doing with notable success since coming down out of the trees - is seriously unprofitable if you're a food company, a definite career loser if you're a nutritionist, and just plain boring if you're a newspaper editor or reporter. (Or, for that matter, an eater. Who wants to hear, yet again, that you should "eat more fruit and vegetables"?) And so like a large grey cloud, a great conspiracy of scientific complexity has gathered around the simplest questions of nutrition - much to the advantage of everyone involved, except the supposed beneficiaries of all this nutritional advice: the eaters.

For the most important thing to know about the campaign to professionalise dietary advice is that it has not made us any healthier. On the contrary: most of the nutritional advice we've received over the past half-century (and in particular the advice to replace the fats in our diets with carbohydrates) has actually made us less healthy and considerably fatter.

It is time to reclaim our health and happiness as eaters. To do this requires an exercise that might at first blush seem unnecessary, if not absurd: to offer a defence of food and the eating thereof. That food and eating stand in need of a defence might seem counterintuitive at a time when "overnutrition" is emerging as a more serious threat to public health than undernutrition.

But I contend that most of what we're consuming today is no longer, strictly speaking, food at all, and how we're consuming it - in the car, in front of the television, and, increasingly, alone - is not really eating, at least not in the sense that civilisation has long understood the term. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the 18th-century gastronomist, drew a useful distinction between the alimentary activity of animals, which "feed", and humans, who eat, or dine - a practice, he suggested, that owes as much to culture as it does to biology.

As eaters we find ourselves increasingly in the grip of a nutritional industrial complex comprising well-meaning, if error-prone, scientists and food marketers only too eager to exploit every shift in the nutritional consensus.

Together, and with some crucial help from officialdom, they have constructed an ideology of nutritionism that, among other things, has convinced us of three pernicious myths: that what matters most is not the food but the "nutrient"; that because nutrients are invisible and incomprehensible to everyone but scientists, we need expert help in deciding what to eat; and that the purpose of eating is to promote a narrow concept of physical health.

Because food in this view is foremost a matter of biology, it follows that we must try to eat "scientifically" - by the nutrient and the number and under the guidance of experts.

If such an approach to food doesn't strike you as the least bit strange, that is probably because nutritionist thinking has become so pervasive as to be invisible. We forget that, historically, people have eaten for a great many reasons other than biological necessity. Food is also about pleasure, about community, about family and spirituality, about our relationship to the natural world and about expressing our identity.

That eating should be first and foremost about bodily health is a relatively new and destructive idea - destructive not just of the pleasure of eating, which would be bad enough, but paradoxically of our health as well.

The scientists haven't tested the hypothesis yet, but I'm willing to bet that when they do they'll find an inverse correlation between the amount of time people spend worrying about nutrition and their health and happiness. This is, after all, the implicit lesson of the French paradox, so called not by the French (Quel paradoxe?) but by Anglo-Saxon nutritionists, who can't fathom how a people who enjoy their food as much as the French do, and eat so many nutrients deemed toxic by nutritionists, could have substantially lower rates of heart disease than others on elaborately engineered low-fat diets.

No people on earth, by contrast, worry more about the health consequences of their food choices than Americans - and no people suffer from as many diet-related health problems.

I don't mean to suggest that all would be well if we could just stop worrying about food or the state of our dietary health: Let them eat Twinkies! There are in fact some very good reasons to worry. The rise of nutritionism reflects legitimate concerns that the world's diet has changed in ways that are making us increasingly sick and fat. Four of the leading 10 causes of death in the US and the UK today are chronic diseases with well-established links to diet: coronary heart disease, diabetes, stroke and cancer.

Yes, the rise to prominence of these chronic diseases is partly due to the fact that we're not dying earlier in life of infectious diseases - but only partly. Even after allowing for age, many of the so-called diseases of civilisation were far less common a century ago - and they remain rare in places where people don't eat the way Britons and Americans do.

That is the elephant in the room whenever we discuss diet and health: "the western diet." All of our uncertainties about nutrition should not obscure the plain fact that the chronic diseases that now kill most westerners can be traced directly to the industrialisation of our food: the rise of highly processed foods and refined grains; the use of chemicals to raise plants and animals in huge monocultures; the superabundance of cheap calories of sugar and fat produced by modern agriculture; and the narrowing of the biological diversity of the human diet to a tiny handful of staple crops, notably wheat, corn, and soy.

These changes have given us the diet that we take for granted: lots of processed foods and meat, lots of added fat and sugar, lots of everything - except vegetables, fruits and whole grains.

That such a diet makes people sick and fat we have known for a long time. Early in the 20th century, an intrepid group of doctors and medical workers observed that wherever in the world people gave up their traditional way of eating, there soon followed a predictable series of western diseases, including obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases and cancer.

They called these the western diseases and, though the precise causal mechanisms were (and remain) uncertain, these observers had little doubt these chronic diseases shared a common etiology: the western diet.

What's more, the traditional diets that the new western foods displaced were strikingly diverse: various populations thrived on diets that were what we'd call high fat, low fat, or high carb; all meat or all plant. Indeed, there have been traditional diets based on just about any kind of whole food you can imagine. What this suggests is that the human animal is well adapted to a great many different diets. The western diet, however, is not one of them.

Here is a simple but crucial fact about diet and health; yet, curiously, it is a fact that nutritionism cannot see, probably because that reductionist approach to diet developed in tandem with the industrialisation of our food. Nutritionism prefers to tinker with the western diet, adjusting the various nutrients (lowering the fat, boosting the protein) and fortifying processed foods rather than questioning their value in the first place.

Nutritionism is, in a sense, the official ideology of the western diet and so cannot be expected to raise radical or searching questions about it.

But we can. We can begin to develop a different way of thinking about food that might point a path out of our predicament. In doing so we have two sturdy - and strikingly hopeful - facts to guide us: first, that humans historically have been healthy eating a great many different diets; and second, that most of the damage to our food and health caused by the industrialisation of our eating can be reversed. Put simply, we can escape the western diet and its consequences.

There are some simple rules of eating that are conducive not only to better health but also to greater pleasure in eating, two goals that turn out to be mutually reinforcing. For example, I'd suggest that you eat meals, not snacks; eat wild foods whenever possible; and avoid any product whose ingredients are unfamiliar, unpronounceable, or more than five in number.

These recommendations (to which I shall return in tomorrow's G2) are a little different from the dietary guidelines you're probably accustomed to. I'm not interested in telling you what to have for dinner. No, these suggestions are more like eating algorithms, mental devices for thinking through our food choices. Because there is no single answer to the question of what to eat, these guidelines will produce as many different menus as there are people using them.

These rules of thumb are also not framed in the vocabulary of nutrition science. Indeed, one of them is to avoid products that make health claims. Why? Because a health claim on a food product is a strong indication that it's not really food.

Science has much of value to teach us about food, and perhaps someday scientists will "solve" the problem of diet, creating the nutritionally optimal meal in a pill, but for now and the foreseeable future, letting the scientists decide the menu would be a mistake. Most of what we need to know about how to eat we already know, or did until we allowed the nutrition experts and the advertisers to shake our confidence in the testimony of our senses, and the wisdom of our mothers and grandmothers.

Not that we had much choice in the matter. By the 1960s or so it had become all but impossible to sustain traditional ways of eating in the face of the industrialisation of our food. In the US particularly, but to a lesser extent throughout the developed world, if you wanted to eat produce grown without synthetic chemicals or meat raised on pasture without pharmaceuticals, you were out of luck.

Convenience stores and supermarkets had become the only place to buy food, and real food was rapidly disappearing from their shelves, to be replaced by those highly processed foodlike products. And because so many of these novelties deliberately lied to our senses with fake sweeteners and flavourings, we could no longer rely on taste or smell to know what we were eating.

Forty years ago, escaping the western diet would have meant either escaping the west itself or going back to the land and growing all your own food. Not any more. Thanks to the resurgence of farmers' markets, the rise of the organic movement, and the renaissance of local agriculture, stepping outside the conventional food system is once more a realistic option. And the more eaters who vote with their forks for a different kind of food, the more commonplace and accessible such food will become.

Eaters have real choices now, and those choices have real consequences, for our health and the health of the land and the health of our food culture. That anyone should need to advise people to "eat food" could be taken as a measure of our alienation and confusion. Or we can choose to see it in a more positive light and count ourselves fortunate indeed that there is once again real food for us to eat.

© Michael Pollan 2008.

Comments  Post your comment

  • 1.
  • At 02:58 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Bob Goodall wrote:

Dear Newsnight

I agree with the comments by Nick Leeson on food, in his book Pages 124-125 which I agree with

best wishes
Bob

see two news bites in one (!!)

  • 2.
  • At 03:15 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Nick Thornsby wrote:

Absolutely fascinating. I have long been of the opinion that it is stupid to eat, for example, margarine which has about 20 ingredients, instead of butter, which has two- butter, and salt. The problem is mainly one of price however. Margarine is cheaper than butter; biscuits are cheaper than fruit; ready meals are often cheaper than cooking the meal from scratch, especially for 1/2 people.

I am now going to follow the advice above about not eating anything with more than 5 ingredients and ingredients that I can't pronounce or have never heard of. I look forward to tonight's debate about this- the food industry will go on about how it is offering affordable food that people want and how they have done so much to reduce fat, salt and sugar in 'foods' and to inform consumers. But at the end of the day, they haven't done that much.

Brilliant! Michael Pollan is a champ!

Salaam/Shalom/Shanthi/Dorood/Peace
Namaste -ed

A major difference between France and the UK is that when you walk down a French street, you very rarely see anyone snacking. Walking through a British town or city, it seems about a third of people are eating a bar of chocolate, a bag of crisps or a pie of some description. No doubt self-discipline has something to do with it, advertising no doubt plays its part - but what about appetite stimulators? Never mentioned as such in a list of ingredients but just how widespread are they? "Once you've popped you can't stop?" I wonder why...

  • 5.
  • At 07:58 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Kaveh wrote:

Trying to rubbish nutrition science is quite silly really. Despite all of the outstanding health problems facing us, we are all living longer lives and are less prone to malnutrition related diseases that debilitated previous generations. The majority of people that are having food related health problems are the ones that ignore science, much like the millions of people around the world that still smoke. Such people see efforts towards health as an inconvenience and deserve little sympathy. We are only gradually beginning to understand how critical our food intake is in determining our health, so to call nutrition a "myth" is simply anti-science and backward nonsense.

The details of nutritional science are constantly evolving, but the central theme remains....

Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.

  • 7.
  • At 11:24 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • chris winter wrote:

Michael Pollan said that the increase in life expectancy is mainly due to a reduction in child mortality.

Many pension funds are underfunded because of increases in longevity - and pension funds do not have children as members!

  • 8.
  • At 11:36 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Daisy wrote:

As a scientist and producer of fresh local food, I have come to the conclusion that the more I more I try to understand how food works, the more I understand how little we actually know. I also realise how difficult it is to piece all the science together.
My conclusion therefore, is to rely on centuries of evolution matching humans with the basic foods we eat and not mess about with it.
We don't have a 'gut instinct' for nothing!

  • 9.
  • At 11:38 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Jude wrote:

I'm delighted to hear someone finally talking sense about the state of our food. I've long held the belief that food that has been meddled with is no food at all. I am lucky enough to live in a town where I can buy meat, vegetables, fruit and dairy products that are all produced within 10 miles of my home. I feel a strong connection with my region and a strong sense that local food is better for me than food shipped many many miles to my door.

I think that supermarkets, food processors and the like have pulled off an amazing trick: they have convinced us that we can't cook, haven't the time to cook and will make bad nutritional choices if we even attempt it. What rubbish! Enjoy your food, value it, value the people who produce it!

  • 10.
  • At 11:39 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Hazel wrote:

Fascinating interview this evening on News Night. You defended your corner admirably. I can't wait to read the book. I was bought up on a farm and ate everything we grew (including the meat). Being Welsh I am extremely interested in the Physicians of Myddfai who stated that one should eat the butter from the cow, drink the milk from the goat and eat the cheese from the sheep. 13TH Century wisdom full circle I dare to suggest. In good faith. Hazel

  • 11.
  • At 11:49 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • karen wrote:

I was brought up in a working class home the 1960s and I'm sure my parents knew very little about 'nutrition'. However what we ate was fairly straightforward-local meat & fish, butter, white bread, and lots of veg- much of which was grown in our back garden. Of course we had sweets & the odd fizzy drink, but most of it was home cooked-and my Mum also worked. We ate together, not in the street, or in front of the TV. Our family have simply carried on doing this (except for the home grown veg bit)and we are not rich, we work, and we are not fat. Michael Pollan is absolutely right.

  • 12.
  • At 11:51 PM on 29 Jan 2008,
  • Lesley Boatwright wrote:

Another thing about the French is that they generally drink a judicious quantity of wine with their food. Also they take more time over their meals. Civilized eating pays a health dividend.

  • 13.
  • At 12:47 AM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • Geoff Paling wrote:

Are we living longer because of an improved diet or despite it? Or, is it because of the advances in medical science that we are taking longer to die?
The population is constantly being "terrorised" by the food and medical media and the consequential increase in anxiety and nurosis induces many or us to compensate by increased consuption...comfort eating if you will.
A cynical view of a cynical world? Perhaps.
This book will bring some sanity and balance to the debate.

  • 14.
  • At 01:05 AM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • John Graham wrote:

It was good to see Michael Pollan pitched against the food industry dudes.

Check out the French and Spanish paradoxes here - www.second-opinions.co.uk/spanish_paradox.html

The above website belongs to Barry Groves, PhD. His latest book - Natural Health & Weight Loss will explain everything you need to know about food including why the demonisation of saturated fat is wrong.

Five portions of fruit and veg a day? Take a look at this -
www.second-opinions.co.uk/5portions.html

  • 15.
  • At 10:23 AM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • Mark SMith wrote:

Great bit of stimulus to get us all thinking of getting back to what feels intuitively right - Go fresh and go from scratch.

  • 16.
  • At 11:30 AM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • David Clifton wrote:

Well done Newsnight for talking to Michael Pollen.
This story is not new of course.
Surgeon-Captain T.L Cleave was writing about refined foods many years ago, and his work is still relevant today. But for some reason he is hardly ever mentioned.
There is however lots of info about him on the internet.


THE SACCHARINE DISEASE

Conditions caused by the Taking
of Refined Carbohydrates,
such as Sugar and White Flour
T. L. CLEAVE, M.R.C.P. (Lond.)
Member of the Institute of Linguists
Surgeon-Captain Royal Navy (Retd.)
Formerly Director of Medical Research,
Institute of Naval Medicine

  • 17.
  • At 06:01 PM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • David Clifton wrote:

Well done Newsnight for talking to Michael Pollen.
This story is not new of course.
Surgeon-Captain T.L Cleave was writing about refined foods many years ago, and his work is still relevant today. But for some reason he is hardly ever mentioned.
There is however lots of info about him on the internet.


THE SACCHARINE DISEASE

Conditions caused by the Taking
of Refined Carbohydrates,
such as Sugar and White Flour
T. L. CLEAVE, M.R.C.P. (Lond.)
Member of the Institute of Linguists
Surgeon-Captain Royal Navy (Retd.)
Formerly Director of Medical Research,
Institute of Naval Medicine

  • 18.
  • At 09:03 PM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • J Cassidy wrote:

The comment about many more British snacking on the street than the French, I agree with.

I believe that the VAT on eat-in food should be removed and placed on take-away food.

That would encourage people to eat more socially; there'd be a higher possiblity of the food be brought together from it's constituent parts (as opposed to frozen, processed foods); reduce packaging waste; and help people to take more time to eat and their relationship to the food.

All in one foul swoop!!

  • 19.
  • At 09:46 PM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • Matthew wrote:

I do not believe that the 'nutrient or food' argument is the only problem but it is a major problem. The article is accurate in portraying the grotesque manner in which food retailers 'jump on the bandwagon' of the current evidence, trend or, in some cases, myth. The main argument against Pollan is the fact that we are living longer then ever before anyway. Or are we? We are surely relating that fact to the current elderly, possibly our last 'food not nutrient' generation. A generation, that in effect, has benefited from significant advances in medicine aswell as the diet proclaimed by Pollan for at least the majority of their lives. It is becoming common knowledge, (based on scientific research!), that this current young generation may have a shorter life expectancy then mothers/fathers. Surely this begs the question, are the improved medical practices becoming undermined by poor diet? If so, Pollan is right.

  • 20.
  • At 11:14 PM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • Jane Dawson wrote:

We are NOT living longer.

Your granny or grandpa, great granny or great grandpa might be, but those brought up on junk food and low fat rubbish are only in their forties or fifties at most. THEY will NOT live to ripe old ages.

It's only those brought up on real foods (including saturated fats) that are living longer.

I don't eat anything I couldn't hunt, fish, grow, pick wild, or make myself (if I had the skills).

  • 21.
  • At 11:16 PM on 30 Jan 2008,
  • Tom wrote:

Different story on diet every night!

Dietary content is important but so is the way we deliver it ? All the Western dieases appeared in C20 after the Victorian engineers prescribed "polite" porcelain. Together with our miserable stool weights it takes protracted and persistent straining to deliver them. Women are not assisted by difficult vaginal deliveries followed by hysterectomy and the menopause.

Injuries to autonomic nerves (denervation) followed by reinnervation, account for many of our latter-day epidemics. Prevention includes proper diets, less straining, lower porcelain and neuroprotective intrapartum policies. Something also happened around 1980 to account for the mass obesity ?

I hope this goes some way to slaking Jeremy's justifiable angst about the surfeit of contradictory dietary advice, and we can get on with global warming ?

Kind regards

  • 22.
  • At 03:44 PM on 10 Feb 2008,
  • Hashim Salleh wrote:

Eating food in the right balance is important. Balanced diet is promoted since we adults (small kids then)enrolled in the kindergarten.
As we prosper (means different things to different people) dieting has become the in-thing. To the extent that, the word dieting has been much distorted.
Back to the issue, let us get to the root of the matter. Do we not observe that there are people in some parts of the world living healthy life till their golden years?
They keep things simple, including food (and drink).
Your book has put the matter in proper perspective. Congratulations!!

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