Several years ago, when I was on assignment in the Middle East, on a rare afternoon off, I was walking through a backstreet in Jerusalem. I came across a small shop and the elderly Jewish shopkeeper invited me in for coffee. We spent the afternoon talking yet at no time did anyone else enter the shop. We discussed the fact that the troubles in Jerusalem had all but destroyed the tourist trade. When I left, he'd not tried once to sell me anything but did give me the coffee pot we'd been using as a souvenir, on condition that I spread the word that Jerusalem was a safe place for tourists.